S550 Does more power = more heat?

[Fabman]

A note here. The fuel used was methanol since the Indy Car engines back then were running methanol. Also, we did have a few dyno fires early on since there was a dodgy seal between the 9th butterfly housing and the plenum and the leak fell right on top of the hot side of the turbo. Thankfully there was a bit of oil to give the flames some color...So be extra sure that there are no leaks in your intake system if you choose to try it out. I know, kinda goes without saying

Spontaneous combustion....that was my fear. Cool fuel on hot screws......would she cool or would she blow? LOL.

 

[BWoolley]

Spontaneous combustion....that was my fear. Cool fuel on hot screws......would she cool or would she blow? LOL.

Yeah not sure I would want to try it with race gas...

 

[TeeLew]

At Cosworth we called it Pre Compressor Injection where we had four high flow injectors in a ring at the turbo inlet. The PCI system worked very well to cool the incoming charge air as well as to add additional fuel. It was first used on the Cosworth XB in 1992 and it made that incredible engine even more formidable.

Bloody oil pump belt...

 

[TeeLew]

This is a really common kit to use on Eco's. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sno-210

It does a great job of dropping air intake temp and increasing knock resistance. You can also use it to actually fuel the car, but if you're not bang on with the metering, it's very easy to lose the engine.

If you're just using it for intake air cooling, you can probably pick up a good 25 hp or so. There was a technical paper I read from WWII airplanes that tested different mixtures of methanol and distilled water. They found that a 50/50 mix of methanol and water was the best combo for reducing temps. It's also significantly safer.

 

[Stangra]

This is a really common kit to use on Eco's. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sno-210

It does a great job of dropping air intake temp and increasing knock resistance. You can also use it to actually fuel the car, but if you're not bang on with the metering, it's very easy to lose the engine.

If you're just using it for intake air cooling, you can probably pick up a good 25 hp or so. There was a technical paper I read from WWII airplanes that tested different mixtures of methanol and distilled water. They found that a 50/50 mix of methanol and water was the best combo for reducing temps. It's also significantly safer.

I was about to reference this same item here, until I read the last sentence.
"They're designed for use in naturally aspirated carbureted gasoline vehicles."
Are they successful on the EcoBoost too?

 

[BWoolley]

Bloody oil pump belt...

Indy '92, Michael was so close!

 

[TeeLew]

I was about to reference this same item here, until I read the last sentence.
"They're designed for use in naturally aspirated carbureted gasoline vehicles."
Are they successful on the EcoBoost too?

You bet, it's super common. The CV Fab intake pipes even have a bung in them standard. I have one on my "I got to get this finished" shelf in the garage. If you're anywhere hot and dry, it'll be worth quite a bit of power. If it's not so hot, then the gain won't be as pronounced, but it's still there.

 

[TeeLew]

Indy '92, Michael was so close!

I was there and froze my ass off.

 

[TeeLew]

The Eco engine in particular really responds to running cooler. When those engines are run in pro racing (N/A) they run them about 80*C. If you can keep the head temp 190*F, it'll run a lot better. Get a bigger radiator (CSF is an option), box the front of the rad and vent the hood. That still won't be enough if it's hot. I honestly think to do it right you probably have to run a Mach 1 or Shelby nose with an aux radiator on one side and an oil cooler on the other.

Also, get a lower thermostat.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Another option is to just inject water. Also cools the intake temps quite well, and no risk of blowing the engine if the WMI kit has any hiccups. There are various failsafes in various systems, but despite them its not too uncommon for the system/failsafes to break and grenade an engine.

If I were doing it over I'd get an upgraded HPFP and run E85. This will be the most reliable system, and will give some intake air cooling, and lots of additional knock resistance. Eco's are very knock sensitive (headgasket) so that would be my primary focus.