Fabman
Dances with racecars
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And here is the KB Rear Grip Kit we're all talking about.
Thanks for posting the video. I wasn’t gonna go look for it.Kenny Brown track day front springs are 550 with street tires, 650 for sticky tires.
“the more spring you put into your mustang the better it’s going to handle ”
**Edited wording for accuracy
Exactly. The whole post, but the above in particular.Now, if you decide to design your own suspension pieces, then you'd better stick to whatever that provider gives you all the way around, if ABC suspension company says this is the ultimate setup, that hoses up all the factory attachment points, you damn well better buy every part they make or recommend, or don't hold them accountable for the outcome. By that measurement ABC should also provide technical sheets on what they build, alignment sheets and tire width and compound recommendations so whoever buys their stuff can have at least some chance of reproducing what they did, and they should provide at least an active phone number for track support, at least at national events.
Thanks for the link.And here is the KB Rear Grip Kit we're all talking about.
Thanks for this link, too. I don't do fb, so youtube links are the only way I get to see these. I found this episode to be better and more informative than others I've watched pieces of.For those that missed it:
I caught that as well, and it's not terribly different from what's on my '08. A little more spring (325 vs 260 front and 285 vs 220 rear) and probably a little less bar (especially if KB recommended removing the rear bar, which I don't think he got into). I can picture that being streetable, given tolerance for ride firmness and a little experimentation with damper settings. Might be getting close to what the yellows can handle, though.Kenny did provide an example where he did an economized package full suspension front and rear, but with Koni yellows and H&R springs in the 300#/in.(+) range. Seems like this would be an possible step forward for the OP if other parts haven’t been ordered.
Yes, but removing the splay/convergence from the lower arms is typical for most aftermarket. I also believe it’s an important aspect in changing the roll steer properties.Thanks for the link.
There's definitely more going on with the geometry than from just lowering the PHB. Plan-view LCA convergence seems to have been shifted, and I wouldn't expect his UCA and UCA bracket to work very well at all without doing axle-side LCA relocation, either.
Norm
I caught that as well, and it's not terribly different from what's on my '08. A little more spring (325 vs 260 front and 285 vs 220 rear) and probably a little less bar (especially if KB recommended removing the rear bar, which I don't think he got into). I can picture that being streetable, given tolerance for ride firmness and a little experimentation with damper settings. Might be getting close to what the yellows can handle, though.
Norm
Agreed.Yes, but removing the splay/convergence from the lower arms is typical for most aftermarket. I also believe it’s an important aspect in changing the roll steer properties.
Same experience, I have had about 5 or 6 different sets of RLCA's and all of them addressed the splay in the arms.Yes, but removing the splay/convergence from the lower arms is typical for most aftermarket. I also believe it’s an important aspect in changing the roll steer properties.
I hope it's because they're specifically making some assumptions about lowering and rear LCA relocating.
Norm
It was interesting to watch the changes in roll steer and anti-squat as pivot locations and ride height are varied.I think that’s a given. Especially regarding all of the posts herein about using parts from different manufacturers.
I guess we have to accept that KB and the rest have to cater to those less knowledgeable, especially as geometry is affected. And that there will be people who take that recommendation and assume that it applies as a universal law not to be disobeyed by anybody.Sticking to one ‘system’ or manufacturer is good advice in general, and almost certainly for people unfamiliar with suspension tuning and theory. But I think it’s somewhat bad advice to use as a hard and fast rule.
More specific information than I was expecting.From Kenny’s video, he does clarify quite a bit about spring rates and ranges that ‘work’ based on use but mainly tire grip levels...as we’ve often said here at TMO.
Definitely interesting. And not easy to do things like increase roll oversteer and reduce anti-squat without monkeying with at least another variable.It was interesting to watch the changes in roll steer and anti-squat as pivot locations and ride height are varied.
I accept and expect such catering to for those customers. Or they wouldn’t sell enough units to make good products available at teasonable prices. I only wish there were better explanations and videos to go with everything. Like Kenny’s C&C broadcast had better info than the video posted on his website and product listings.I guess we have to accept that KB and the rest have to cater to those less knowledgeable, especially as geometry is affected. And that there will be people who take that recommendation and assume that it applies as a universal law not to be disobeyed by anybody.
Yeah, way more. The bar was set pretty low with his product videos.More specific information than I was expecting.
I have a complete Kenny Brown set up with PHB relocation kit and front K member set up and control arm relocation brackets. Car previously had the complete Ford suspension package. I do not have Coilovers, and am not looking to upgrade to Coilovers. After instillation of the Kenny Brown kit, I get quite a bit more push compared to the Ford kit. I am not running a rear sway bar as the Ford Performance blue bar, interferes with the PHB relocation bracket. To me there seems to be more body roll compared to the Ford kit. I have been unable to find information on anyone running a smaller rear sway bar with the KB kit. From my understanding, without the rear sway bar my effective spring rates in turns is now reduced without the rear bar.
I am trying to find anyone that has run a rear sway bar with the KB relocation kit, and what size they used. To me I feel too much roll compared to the Ford kit, and am getting more push in left bank turns. The Ford kit with Ford blue rear sway bar did not have this push, and felt more control in left turns, which in turn I felt more confident in curves. The KB kit leaves me less confident in curves, and makes the car less fun to drive.
I am trying to find if I could use a 20mm or 18mm rear sway bar with the KB relocation brackets, or I am looking to just revert back to the Ford blue sway bar and remove just the KB PHB relocation kit, and replace it with and adjustable Panhard Bar. I read in some post that Yopauly added a rear bar to the KB relocation kit, but no information was given on size or anything. KB on videos says he has used a smaller rear sway bar, but no information was given on the size, and I could not get an answer on size from calling KB.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all.
He mentioned that he was going to remove the KB PHB kit and go back to the rear sway bar that worked with his springs before, so....I think we helped him?Here is the OP’s original post.
I’m still wondering. . . Have we helped him? Have we answered his question?
He mentioned that he was going to remove the KB PHB kit and go back to the rear sway bar that worked with his springs before, so....I think we helped him?
Probably the simplest solution....Unless there is some OTHER problem we don't know about.Good news & a wise choice.
Thank you FabMan as I missed that.
Here is the OP’s original post.
I’m still wondering. . . Have we helped him? Have we answered his question?