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SN95 LS3 Pony Build Thread Profile - SN95 Mustangs

548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
It's not much but I got my trans temp gage installed and working. I had to add a ground wire to my 1 wire sensor. I also have a matching oil temp gage that I need to install at some point. Diff temp probably wouldn't be a bad idea either.
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JDee

Ancient Racer
1,477
1,476
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
halfway between Mosport and Shannonville
It's not much but I got my trans temp gage installed and working. I had to add a ground wire to my 1 wire sensor. I also have a matching oil temp gage that I need to install at some point. Diff temp probably wouldn't be a bad idea either.
View attachment 67906

View attachment 67907

How did you figure that out? I have a Derale trans temp gauge that starts to read at 140 and the needle never moves despite getting readings off the aeroquip lines of 170F with a infrared heat gun. Nothing in the directions said anything about adding a ground wire on the sensor, but I'll be adding one today and hope that is the magic bullet.
 
548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
How did you figure that out? I have a Derale trans temp gauge that starts to read at 140 and the needle never moves despite getting readings off the aeroquip lines of 170F with a infrared heat gun. Nothing in the directions said anything about adding a ground wire on the sensor, but I'll be adding one today and hope that is the magic bullet.
Suggestion from some of the people on the Facebook group.
 
548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Since I have absolutely nothing better to do with my time I installed a button for my 2-step. There is no practical reason for me to have this outside of a ProSolo but it's cool and I wanted to, lol.

I also got my swaybar swapped out to the bigger one. No pictures. It looks like a swaybar but bigger than the other one. It feels very different to drive, like it's pivoting around a point closer to the rear of the car. I can't wait for our next event.

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Testing, my GoPro is drunk.
 
548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
The car is loaded up for Track Night in America tomorrow at Heartland Park. This will be the first time I've had the car on track since 2016 when it had the stock motor, stock suspension, run flats, and lowering springs. I'm really excited to see how it does, it's been way too long.
 
548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
*Track Updates*

Track Night went great. The car performed amazing other than some braking issues. The new rear sway bar made a MASSIVE difference in the car and got rid of the push without any oversteer. I set the tire pressure at 34/34 hot and left it there. I went 4 off on my first lap coming into turn 8. I got on the brakes and the front just locked up. I did my best ABS impression but just couldn't get it slowed down enough to not go off track. After that I took it very easy on the brakes the rest of the day. I guess it could have just been cold tires but I don't feel like I was braking that aggressively considering it was the out lap. I'm running HP+ pads and I never got them hot or felt them fade so that tells you how easy I was on the brakes, lol. I might also try some more rear bias.

My goal was to get under 2 min. I was running very consistent 2:00's so during the second session a took a cool down lap on lap 5 and then turned it up on lap 6 and ran a 1:58.8 with a tiny bit of traffic. After that I started running into fuel starvation issues and called it a day. I skipped my last session because I had met my goal and the car was still in one piece.

I think I need to look into a surge tank setup for the fuel. Under 3/4 tank it starts becoming a problem on long sweepers like turn 3.

Here's my lap.
 
548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Yesterday I went down to Neosho, MO to run autocross with the 4 States Corvette Club. I really liked the course. I'm still waiting for the official results to be posted but I think I got in the top 3 for raw time. I think I'm figuring out how this car likes to be driven. Just get my braking done early so I can turn and get back on the gas. It at least worked for this course.
 
99
156
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Michigan
This is such an awesome build. Since I bought my GT I've found a lot of inspiration from your car, but I've never gone through the build photos start to finish, just watched what you were doing on Insta for the past year or so. Super nice work and I can see some designs I may have to borrow from you! Very well done!

Did you happen to weigh the front bumper vs. the tubular replacement? That's one of the things I'm considering doing but I've read that the weight difference isn't that large and the OEM bumper is much safer in a crash.
 
548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
This is such an awesome build. Since I bought my GT I've found a lot of inspiration from your car, but I've never gone through the build photos start to finish, just watched what you were doing on Insta for the past year or so. Super nice work and I can see some designs I may have to borrow from you! Very well done!

Did you happen to weigh the front bumper vs. the tubular replacement? That's one of the things I'm considering doing but I've read that the weight difference isn't that large and the OEM bumper is much safer in a crash.
Thank you! It's been a long process but it's getting close to being in a good spot.

I don't remember weighing the stock bumper but the tubular has a manufacturer provided weight of 3lb 15oz.

In this thread I've seen the front bumper listed as 15lb and 16.5lbs. Not sure if either is accurate and probably depends on year.
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99
156
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Michigan
Thank you! It's been a long process but it's getting close to being in a good spot.

I don't remember weighing the stock bumper but the tubular has a manufacturer provided weight of 3lb 15oz.

In this thread I've seen the front bumper listed as 15lb and 16.5lbs. Not sure if either is accurate and probably depends on year.
View attachment 71032
Oh, nice. I believe Docol is lighter than DOM, which is what the thread I was referencing was comparing, so that makes a difference. But, man, for what I just paid for the tubing for my roll bar this Docol front bumper looks like a bargain! Might have to go for that.
 
548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
I've been remodeling my house so I haven't touched the car in months. I figured I should get a head start this year so I can actually make some events before July like has happened the last couple years.

My main goal this year is to win CAM-T in Kansas City Region. I had enough points to win the last two years but didn't attend enough events. Secondly, I want to run my first Time Trial event. Most likely at Heartland Park in May. Third, I want to make it to either LS Fest or SCCA Nationals in September.

First things first, my 3 year old Yokohama's are DUN. At our last autox in October it felt like I was on ice. I was in between the Yok's and the RT660's but I decided to go back with the A052's because I know what to expect. I did, however, go down to a 30 instead of the 35 I had been running to see if I like it any better. If nothing else it should help my gearing a little bit since I have the 3.27's in it.
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I also picked up a new set of Koni SA's for the rear because I suspect one of mine is blown and could also be causing some of my grip issues. The ones on my car are over 5 years old at this point. I may send them in to be revalved.
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I also ordered some of Maximum Motorsports racing rear shock mounts. I've been meaning to make this upgrade for awhile and now is the perfect time. I think this is the last piece of the MM catalog not already bolted to my car. When I submitted the order I was told they are about 30 days out so I'm still waiting for these.
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There were some other upgrades I wanted to do this year like the fuel system and adding on to the roll bar but I think I'm just going to roll with it as is and just drive it. I can start back on the upgrades next winter. The only other thing I think needs to be done this year is install the Accusump. I just can't decide on a spot to mount the tank.
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548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
I ordered some Maximum Motorsports rear shock mounts through RoadRace1. Nick was fantastic to deal with and had great communication. These are basically the last part of the MM catalog not already bolted to my car. They came in last week so I got them installed yesterday along with a fresh set of shocks.

Here is a short video I made to compare the new vs old shocks.

All the pieces.
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I had to remove some of the seam sealer to get the mounts positioned correctly. Also had to use a die grinder to open the hole up to 1" diameter per MM.
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After a coat of self etching primer and final install.
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548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
First autocross of the season this weekend so I got the car out last weekend to clean it up. Luckily I did because I found that my water pump had committed suicide. I drove the car a couple weeks ago and it sat outside overnight. I didn't think it got cold enough to worry but I guess it did. That seems to be my only explanation of why this would happen. This water pump was new when I put the heads back on the car last year. I got the pump replaced and coolant system refilled so hopefully I'm ready to go for Sunday.

IMG_3752 (1).jpg
 
548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Yesterday absolutely did not start out as planned. When I left the house is was a rain/sleet mix and continued for most of my hour and 15 minute drive on 3 year old bald A052's:eek:
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Right before the drivers meeting started it turned into this.
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Luckily I ran heat 3 so by the time I started driving it had "warmed up" into the upper 30's. My tires are beyond shot and almost laughable. Just yanking the wheel back and forth at 15mph causes mild understeer. 2 of my 4 runs I understeered off the course.:ohdamn: I can't put too much stock into my class because I was the only car running in CAM-T. CAM-C however had 14 cars including the former CAM-T national champion car. I have the new stack of fresh A052's sitting at home but I was waiting for warmer weather to put them on so I don't run the risk of hurting them. I also ended up 15th RAW time and 15th PAX out of 100+ cars so I think it ended up ok for the first event of the season.
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Last edited:
548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
Official results from last weekend. 15th overall out of 100. Not really where I want to be but I can't complain too much considering I was on 3 year old tires and threw away 2 of my 4 runs. I'm really considering adding weight and moving up to CAM-C to see how it does. I would need to add roughly 250lbs and figure out where to put it.

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548
543
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Kansas City, Missouri
I finally got started on the Accusump install. I've been going back and forth on where I want to mount for the last year and simplicity finally won out. I was looking around the shop to see what metal I had laying around and then I saw my old strut tower bar laying there and took it as a sign.
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I cut the ends of the bracket off and drilled some new bolt holes. Then I made some brackets out of angle iron to weld on so I could mount the tank. Some people asked why I didn't mount the tank in the car. I wanted to keep the lines as short as possible and I didn't want a possible oil leak inside the car. If this were a max effort race car then I could see merit to moving the weight to the back but I'm a big fan of simplicity. Putting the tank inside the car would add many more feet of expensive and heavy AN lines plus multiple potential leaks at the bulkhead fittings.
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After I got the brackets welded on I completely stripped the old paint off and reshot it with some self etching primer and cast coat aluminum spray paint.
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The installation directions want you to mount the control valve directly to the tank. This caused a clearance issue with my intake tube so I elected to mount the valve remotely.
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The valve already had some 1/4" bolt holes on the bottom for mounting so making a bracket was pretty easy. I used a piece of 1/8" x 2" strap and bad a bracket to fit on top of the "frame rail". This puts the valve right next to my auxiliary fuse box so wiring it in should be pretty simple. I screwed up and didn't think about the hole being mirrored on my template so now I have extra holes(weight reduction).
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Here's what it looks like all mounted up. Plenty of clearance to moving parts and I can still get to my brake bias valve.
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I was originally going to T into my oil cooler lines but I've decided to run it strait to the block instead. I think this gives the system the fastest possible reaction time if there were a drop in oil pressure and also eliminates more potential leaks. Now I just need to order a few fittings to finish it up.
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