- Thread starter
- #61
PatientZero
@restless_performance
On the scale. 18lbs vs 35lbs. Much more metal there.
Unfortunately all that extra metal didn't leave room for headers. I was able to cut off one of the primaries on the driver side and get it in with a little bit of Hammer Time. It likely wouldn't be too difficult to rebuild and make work.
The passeger side however. Hell, I cut one tube off, and used my 4lb hammer in 3 different spots. I then had to remove the starter, lift the engine as high as possible and then pry it toward the driver side to get the mangled header in the car. It's not going to work. I REALLY want to keep the long tubes but it's going to be a pain. Then it's going to suck anytime I have to work on it. Maximum Motorsports recommends the Hooker Blackheart headers to fit but they are $1000+, that's not gonna happen. I ordered a set of shorty's and I'll keep my fingers crossed they fit. Then I'll have to remake or add to the front portion of my exhaust. Oh yea, I have 2 weekends until Kansas City Event #1.
After I got the K-member in and squared to the car I started getting the front suspension put back together.
First I did new ARP wheel studs that have been sitting on the shelf for AT LEAST 3 years.
While the spindles were off I took them to a local old guy that does a lot of machine work for dirt track cars. I had to have the holes for the tie rods drilled to 5/8" so I could swap over to a bolt-through style tie rod rather than the tapered style.
Spindles bolted up on the car. I left the spring off the coilover so I could measure and set bumpsteer.
I ended up using many many more spacers than this. The wheel is pushed forward 1 1/2" inches from stock so I have gratuitous amounts of caster. And the lower control arm mounts higher on the k-member than stock.
Unfortunately all that extra metal didn't leave room for headers. I was able to cut off one of the primaries on the driver side and get it in with a little bit of Hammer Time. It likely wouldn't be too difficult to rebuild and make work.
The passeger side however. Hell, I cut one tube off, and used my 4lb hammer in 3 different spots. I then had to remove the starter, lift the engine as high as possible and then pry it toward the driver side to get the mangled header in the car. It's not going to work. I REALLY want to keep the long tubes but it's going to be a pain. Then it's going to suck anytime I have to work on it. Maximum Motorsports recommends the Hooker Blackheart headers to fit but they are $1000+, that's not gonna happen. I ordered a set of shorty's and I'll keep my fingers crossed they fit. Then I'll have to remake or add to the front portion of my exhaust. Oh yea, I have 2 weekends until Kansas City Event #1.
After I got the K-member in and squared to the car I started getting the front suspension put back together.
First I did new ARP wheel studs that have been sitting on the shelf for AT LEAST 3 years.
While the spindles were off I took them to a local old guy that does a lot of machine work for dirt track cars. I had to have the holes for the tie rods drilled to 5/8" so I could swap over to a bolt-through style tie rod rather than the tapered style.
Spindles bolted up on the car. I left the spring off the coilover so I could measure and set bumpsteer.
I ended up using many many more spacers than this. The wheel is pushed forward 1 1/2" inches from stock so I have gratuitous amounts of caster. And the lower control arm mounts higher on the k-member than stock.