@raidernixon what pressures were you running on the PS4s cold/hot? I'm not sure what Michelin recommends, and also for the Cup 2s. Apprec it thanks!
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S550 2021 Ford Mustang Mach 1 Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs
- Thread starterraidernixon
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #22
With both the PS4S and Cup 2, I usually start the day off with 28 PSI cold. I will then keep the tire pressure display up on the dash and monitor it during the first session. My target hot PSI is about 34 to 36 PSI. If/when tire pressure exceeds 36 psi, I come off track and immediately bleed every tire down to 34-36 PSI (lower end if it is a hot day). This should have you in the correct ballpark hot PSI for the rest of the day. Your cold pressure at the point will likely be in the 24 to 26 psi range depending on the day.
This seems to work well. I just got a longacre pyrometer and plan to start experimenting on this aspect quite a bit next year.
- Thread starter
- #23
Got a few updates on this car over the past month or two.
Installed the Borla Switchfire X-Pipe:
I did not notice any kind of a power increase (wasn't expecting it), but it has done an amazing job of cleaning up the tone of the car (more fun!). The volume is not obnoxious - I would say quiet is still very, very quiet, but normal mode is the old sport mode, sport mode is the old track mode, and track mode is now the 20 GT500 in sport mode.
I removed the rear seats and installed the Ford rear seat delete kit in anticipation of the watson cage going in soon.
As many probably know - on the 21+ Mustangs, don't remove the rear buckles or you will get that annoying seatbelt alert every startup. I am glad I knew about this before starting. I just wrapped the buckles in a little bubble wrap from the seat delete kit and everything fits fine, cant hear anything moving around.
I am now in the process of preparing to install the 4-point Watson roll cage. At this point I am waiting on harnesses, a set of lap/sub belt combo mounts (thanks @06mach1 ) , and a few other odds and ends before starting the install. I recently lucked into a few salvage trim panels from an 18 S550 to cut up so I don't have to destroy my original panels. Also, I just got the roll cage back from powder coating last night and got it to match the orange of the Mach 1 calipers.
Still trying to decide on a 6 pt harness - I'm torn between the Safecraft and Schroth offerings.
Installed the Borla Switchfire X-Pipe:
I did not notice any kind of a power increase (wasn't expecting it), but it has done an amazing job of cleaning up the tone of the car (more fun!). The volume is not obnoxious - I would say quiet is still very, very quiet, but normal mode is the old sport mode, sport mode is the old track mode, and track mode is now the 20 GT500 in sport mode.
I removed the rear seats and installed the Ford rear seat delete kit in anticipation of the watson cage going in soon.
As many probably know - on the 21+ Mustangs, don't remove the rear buckles or you will get that annoying seatbelt alert every startup. I am glad I knew about this before starting. I just wrapped the buckles in a little bubble wrap from the seat delete kit and everything fits fine, cant hear anything moving around.
I am now in the process of preparing to install the 4-point Watson roll cage. At this point I am waiting on harnesses, a set of lap/sub belt combo mounts (thanks @06mach1 ) , and a few other odds and ends before starting the install. I recently lucked into a few salvage trim panels from an 18 S550 to cut up so I don't have to destroy my original panels. Also, I just got the roll cage back from powder coating last night and got it to match the orange of the Mach 1 calipers.
Still trying to decide on a 6 pt harness - I'm torn between the Safecraft and Schroth offerings.
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- Thread starter
- #24
Accidental double post
Any 6 point will require new bucket seats as the stock ones don't have a provision in the bottom cushion to pass the crotch straps (which by the way you should absolutely never sit on like I've seen some guys do ...).
In terms of harnesses, I always recommend Schroth, it's usually the pricier option but it's just better, and when it comes to safety, I'd rather spend a few extra $$ than spend my days in a hospital bed.
In terms of harnesses, I always recommend Schroth, it's usually the pricier option but it's just better, and when it comes to safety, I'd rather spend a few extra $$ than spend my days in a hospital bed.
Get the 2’’ shoulder straps for your hans, not the 3’’
SFI has approved the use of sit on style crotch straps. They actually have a pdf document showing it.
@raidernixon I had a question about the springs and stabilizer bar. Did you have to do a magnaride software update after fitting the springs? and did the new springs lower the car any from the non hp? I'm trying to go with a set of apex wheels and run a square 19x11 setup with the vorshalg camber plates. I see you have just the rear sway bar listed on your build thread, how come you didn't go front and rear? Did you consider Steeda dual rate springs and bars?
- Thread starter
- #29
I did not have to do any kind of update with the magnaride software after installing the springs. I had been wondering if my car would still feel different from a true HP car, but after driving the track attack Mach 1's, I can verify that I noticed no difference whatsoever.
The HP springs did lower the car by roughly 1/2 inch, maybe a tad bit more (the springs are shorter).
I did not change the front sway bar because it is the same for both the non-HP and the HP car. Only the rear sway bar is different in that is is solid instead of hollow (in fact, this was one of the most immediate differences I felt in the feel of the car when comparing the non-HP vs. HP - it reduced understeer and the back end now seems more predictable).
I did not consider Steeda - wanted to keep it simple and stick with Ford/OEM on this build with the exception of the camber plates - the Ford ones just don't have the ease of adjustability that I need. For what it's worth, by doing the conversion with the Ford OEM HP components, you WILL notice an immediate change in the car - firmer, stickier, more direct and more balanced. Significantly reduced body roll. At this point I don't really see a need to change anything. We will see how the next year goes and if increased pace starts demanding any changes.
I don't think you will have any problems with the 19X11 wheels. I have run several configurations:
HP Wheels:
19x10.5 Front (24MM offset) 305/30/R19 - no problem
19x11 Rear (52.2MM offset) 325/30/R19 - no problem, 315/30R19 - no problem
Vorshlag Spec Momo 19x11 RF20 wheels (nearly identical offsets to the above HP wheels)
305/30R19 square - no problem
@raidernixon Amazing, thanks for the info, very helpful. Its hard to find any good source of knowledge on these changes. Body roll is the number 1 factor I want to fix, so happy to hear this is addressed with relatively straightforward work. The car already feels great, the HP wheels were a big difference from base after I switched them out, so I am excited to try some track dedicated wheels and tires along with the camber adjustment. My next move will probably be the same as you, roll cage, seats and harnesses.
Incidentally, are you planning on another ECR day anytime soon? Id love to get on track with a faster driver in another similarly spec'd car (sounds like you are Tremec manual also?) What run groups are you tracking the car in? I've got a couple of days under my belt there so far. It's the closest to me since I'm North DFW.
Incidentally, are you planning on another ECR day anytime soon? Id love to get on track with a faster driver in another similarly spec'd car (sounds like you are Tremec manual also?) What run groups are you tracking the car in? I've got a couple of days under my belt there so far. It's the closest to me since I'm North DFW.
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Great looking FJG. I’m in Houston and looking for a good shop to get an HP spoiler painted in Magnetic. Mind sharing where you had it done?
Do you happen to still have the original base wing? I'm on the look out for one but haven't had much luck. Can't find the part number either. Thanks in advance!
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If you’re anywhere near DFW I have one.
I'm in Houston, would you be willing to ship?
- Thread starter
- #35
Thanks! I had mine done at a local place called Frank's Custom Body. It's located in Kemah/Clear Lake Shores. 281-334-4414
The base coat is Magnetic and if I remember correctly, the satin finish was level 4.
- Thread starter
- #36
I do still have the base wing but am not ready to sell it at this time - I may be using it for another project.
Here are the part numbers though from the bottom of the spoiler if that helps:
Thank you!
- Thread starter
- #38
Big update to report - My 2027 Schroth ASM Harness arrived a few weeks ago after a 2-3 month wait. This is the last component I was waiting on to install the Watson cage, which I completed this week.
Other than being a pain in the ass, the install was pretty straightforward. A big thank you to several forum members here who helped me out - you know who you are.
Most you already know, but this is definitely a two person job, especially when drilling and mounting up the back legs to the rear crossmember. On my car, I did have to slightly bend a few brake lines and hoses out of the way so that they do not rub the cage mounting plates. Also, I did aquire some trim panels from a salvage car so I did not have to cut up my originals.
The only drama I encountered was that I had to chase down an airbag code - Forscan identified a fault in the RCM with "Code: B1415:93 - Driver Side Restraints Sensor 3 - No Operation". I ultimately came to find that a pin had come loose in the connector for the driver side impact sensor along the B pillar. Not sure how that happened but I suspect it got pulled on or something without me knowing.
As a fun note, my wife (who also tracks) came out to the garage to do a welfare check on me and saw that the car had been stripped out. She made the comment that removing all of that weight would probably make the car faster. Of course, I agreed with here and then tried to make a sales pitch to leave all of that weight out but I didn't get so lucky...it was an immediate "NO, put the trim back in for a while at least"
. So, all the weight went back into the car. At least it looks nice for a track car 
I test drove the car around town for a few hours today and no squeak or rattles. I'm pretty happy with it an looking forward to using it out on track.
Here are some photos:
This should be it for a while aside from maintenance. I am eyeballing some Girodisc rotors in the near future to replace my rotors that have been heat checking for a while.
Cheers!
Other than being a pain in the ass, the install was pretty straightforward. A big thank you to several forum members here who helped me out - you know who you are.
Most you already know, but this is definitely a two person job, especially when drilling and mounting up the back legs to the rear crossmember. On my car, I did have to slightly bend a few brake lines and hoses out of the way so that they do not rub the cage mounting plates. Also, I did aquire some trim panels from a salvage car so I did not have to cut up my originals.
The only drama I encountered was that I had to chase down an airbag code - Forscan identified a fault in the RCM with "Code: B1415:93 - Driver Side Restraints Sensor 3 - No Operation". I ultimately came to find that a pin had come loose in the connector for the driver side impact sensor along the B pillar. Not sure how that happened but I suspect it got pulled on or something without me knowing.
As a fun note, my wife (who also tracks) came out to the garage to do a welfare check on me and saw that the car had been stripped out. She made the comment that removing all of that weight would probably make the car faster. Of course, I agreed with here and then tried to make a sales pitch to leave all of that weight out but I didn't get so lucky...it was an immediate "NO, put the trim back in for a while at least"
. So, all the weight went back into the car. At least it looks nice for a track car I test drove the car around town for a few hours today and no squeak or rattles. I'm pretty happy with it an looking forward to using it out on track.
Here are some photos:
This should be it for a while aside from maintenance. I am eyeballing some Girodisc rotors in the near future to replace my rotors that have been heat checking for a while.
Cheers!
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That is excellent my sir! The Harnesses will make a significant difference in lap times. The install looks way better than mine.
I am not sure if it applies to this particular 4 point harness, but I would suggest your wear a HANS (Hybrids are cool).
I am not sure if it applies to this particular 4 point harness, but I would suggest your wear a HANS (Hybrids are cool).
I want to get these one day. So, here comes a potentially silly question: How?
Did you go to the local parts department and order them? Or order them online?
(I've searched several web sites and haven't found OEM Mach 1 springs.)
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