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Yessir. I have the mounting plates spaced exactly at 24 inches, but realistically they could be placed anywhere along the arch with a little modification on my end in CAD. Overall height is 16 inches and would sit under the trunk lid. My thought is this can be done as a DIY kit to keep costs low. Each of these pieces could be cut by a company like SendCutSend and welding together by yourself or a local shop.Wow that looks great man! I assume the distance between the plates with the holes will match the wing mount spacing?
This is not my area of expertise so I dont have much feedback. How tall it going to be? Is it going to sit right under the lid?
I'll try to write something up tonight.@5.2 liters of democracy any updates
I have one more update you'll like as well. I have someone to weld up the wing mount so I can then make the intermediate uprights. One step closer!Love the progress man. Definite wish more manufacturers made seats with integrated back brace mounts
I have one of these VMP fuel swapping kits - it turns the pump on without the engine started. Never been used, you’re more than welcome to give it a rip.Does anyone happen to have a favorite method for draining the gas tank? I need to get all the old 91 out of there in favor of E85. Thanks!
Edit: Ideally one that doesn't require the car to be started since it isn't tuned right now. I may just have to have the tuner pump it out.
Thanks brother! I just heard from the tuner and it turns out he can just pump it right out for me.I have one of these VMP fuel swapping kits - it turns the pump on without the engine started. Never been used, you’re more than welcome to give it a rip.
https://www.vmpperformance.com/VMP-Fuel-Swapping-Kit
That’s exactly why mine never got used - Sean had a similar setup. Now that I think about it, it’s best to start a new engine on gas and then cut over after initial ring seat and baseline tuning.Thanks brother! I just heard from the tuner and it turns out he can just pump it right out for me.
Sean put that tune in my car. I pump out the E85 and put 93 in tank and engine during storageThat’s exactly why mine never got used - Sean had a similar setup. Now that I think about it, it’s best to start a new engine on gas and then cut over after initial ring seat and baseline tuning.
That's great info. This is my first adventure into the land of new engines so I passed that info along to the tuner. We'll have to pump out the old 91 since it has been in the tank for about 14 months now.That’s exactly why mine never got used - Sean had a similar setup. Now that I think about it, it’s best to start a new engine on gas and then cut over after initial ring seat and baseline tuning.
Pics of said adapter? Did you try just using an ORB hose end ? Or possibly a banjo style, those are commonly use on dry sump setups. Just curious what wasn't workingI have one more update you'll like as well. I have someone to weld up the wing mount so I can then make the intermediate uprights. One step closer!
The full story that led to this is a doozy, but's it is probably good to air out for anyone else that wants to try a similar thing on their build in the future. I know I've been through several members' build threads here 10+ times and I've picked many things up from those many years before I actually needed them. Here we go:
Lessons Learned from Third-Party Machining
I lost my engine to oiling. While rebuilding it, I found that Ford Performance is the only company that makes a remote oil block with AN12 fittings. AN12 matches the ports on the block as well. EVERY. SINGLE. COMPANY. that isn't Ford makes these in AN10. Why? My guess is it's easier to downsize and rely on their brand history to sell them than have to make an oil block with offset AN12 fittings. Two AN12 fittings do not fit next to each other without having to have one come in at a diagonal.
So why not use the Ford one? Believe it or not, it doesn't fit properly. I have pictures earlier in this thread that demonstrate how far off the three mounting holes are on the remote oil block Ford makes. Even if I was to port the holes on the block, the holes being larger and offset relative to the AN port may cause some turbulent flow. Do I know without a shadow of a doubt that AN10 isn't perfectly fine? Not entirely, no. Am I willing to risk it? Absolutely not. Ford put way more money into engineering their parts than likely all these companies combined. I lost one engine to lack of oiling, I'm not losing another.
So how did I handle it? Well I taught myself how to use Fusion 360 for months and eventually made my own. I went through about 20 3D printed prototypes before I landed on something that 1) wouldn't have any weird angles affecting flow, 2) used exclusively AN12 as Ford intended, and 3) cleared all the necessary components down there (mainly the alternator) while re-using the OEM oil pressure sensor (1/4 NPT). Everything pointed to it being perfect until I needed to have it made.
After many quotes, I used Parts Badger to CNC the part as they were able to provide me quick support and assurance on the thread pitch. I even double checked via e-mail that they understood the thread pitch needed to fit an AN12 fitting. Well whatever they did does not fit any AN12 fitting I nor three local machine shops own. After I was sent to the third machine shop, they let me know that welding the fitting in place probably makes the most sense because the fitting still does not enter properly even after they ran a tap through it. It binds after about 3/4 of a turn. We've tried four different AN fittings and whatever machining was done to this thing has made no sense to three local shops.
I ending up asking the shop if there was a local guy they trust for the welding work and fortunately they did know someone that was directly across from them in the industrial center I was at. That's something I've learned is these industrial centers are often much more than single businesses working near each other. These places end up being a whole network of guys that hop in and out of each others' shops to solve issues. They can almost always guide you with services that are adjacent to their own, but that they don't really do. It looks like all the work is finally coming to an end now that I have a local welder and a solution to this stupid issue I've been having.
Insert stupid quote about things that are hard being worth doing or some other BS. I originally went down this path to save money because the aftermarket parts were cheaper than the OEM housing
TL;DR
Be careful with online, third-party machining. Try a local place first. I have a local race car and sand rail frame builder welding the fittings onto the oil block and welding up the wing mount.
None of the 1-1/16-12 fittings would fit the part, even after having a tap run through it. It completely perplexed three machine shops. We tried four different AN12 fittings and even verified their size by running them through other pieces tapped to that size. The part is hard anodized so perhaps that's what was causing the interference? None of us wanted to try and force a fitting down in the part and completely ruin it so I just settled on welding it. Here's the fitting:Pics of said adapter? Did you try just using an ORB hose end ? Or possibly a banjo style, those are commonly use on dry sump setups. Just curious what wasn't working
I could have machined that for you btw.. LOL
I see I guess I was confused where the interference between the -12 fittings was. Or this is another adapter that solves the issue ? And you can run a tap through before or after hard anodize ? You can’t hard anodize a regular thread and expect it to still work. It builds up 4x on the threads and makes a big difference. But if the tap fits after the fact then it should be fine..None of the 1-1/16-12 fittings would fit the part, even after having a tap run through it. It completely perplexed three machine shops. We tried four different AN12 fittings and even verified their size by running them through other pieces tapped to that size. The part is hard anodized so perhaps that's what was causing the interference? None of us wanted to try and force a fitting down in the part and completely ruin it so I just settled on welding it. Here's the fitting:AN-12 to AN-12 Male Flare Union Fitting
P/N 15611: AN-12 to AN-12 Male Flare Union Fitting More area and smoother transitions from the inlet to the outlet, resulting in less restriction than any other fitting line.The Aeromotive line of custom fittings, adapters and hose-ends are a step above the norm, offering uncompromised fuel flow...aeromotiveinc.com
Here's the part:
View attachment 92201View attachment 92202View attachment 92200
I will go directly to you next time because this has been a hellacious journey that I'm just glad is almost over.
Sorry man, meant to get back to you last night. The -12 fittings bind after about a turn AFTER running a tap through them after running a tap through them. Before, they'd catch almost immediately, maybe 1/3 of a turn. The adapter pictured is the same one with the issue. The fix has been to grind the threads down, seat the fittings, then weld them in place.I see I guess I was confused where the interference between the -12 fittings was. Or this is another adapter that solves the issue ? And you can run a tap through before or after hard anodize ? You can’t hard anodize a regular thread and expect it to still work. It builds up 4x on the threads and makes a big difference. But if the tap fits after the fact then it should be fine..