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I haven't updated this thread in a while, but the last few months have been a flurry of activity (and also, somehow, inactivity).
In order to (hopefully) solve the issue that forced me to retire from the NASA Championships at COTA after starting from the back and picking off 11 cars, I added some more significant heat shielding to the fuel cell and surrounding trunk floorpan areas. This will hopefully prevent excess exhaust heat from permeating into the fuel cell and trunk area and keep the in-cell fuel pump happy.
I created a wire-mesh "wall" using the existing fuel cell support cage, and then lined that mesh wall with an adhesive aluminum/fiberglass heat shield material. If this continues to prove to be insufficient, I will also consider wrapping the exhaust (just don't have time for that right now)--but this issue didn't come up until 40 minutes into a 45 minute race, so I probably won't have a chance to really test for some time.
Bare mesh riveted to the existing fuel cell "cage":
Heat shield material attached to the mesh:
A small sample of the mesh to see the layers:
More of the shield material applied to the areas surrounding the mufflers and pass-by areas for the over-axle pipes:
A nice-to-have upgrade that I completed during this time was to enable a nitrogen-filling capability for my shocks at the track. This ensures that I can 1) make sure I have the correct pressures in the rear shock canisters and 2) allow me to adjust the canister pressures at the track, both without having to mooch equipment from fellow racers.
Assembled Nitrogen filling system:
Longacre digital gauge w/ 2-stage valve:
Quick-disconnect installed to the hose and gauge:
Another nice-to-have change that I implemented was installing a set of fender vents to (presumably) help vent trapped air out of the wheelwells at speed.
I don't have any test data but since I was already this far tearing the car apart I figured it is worth a shot. I used a set of CF 2013-14 hood vents from @AJ Hartman Aero and cut the fenders and fender liners to fit and vent. I matched the surface area of the cuts in the fender well to the surface area of the openings in the vents.
Marking the cut location on the fenders using some tape and green posterboard:
Cut made:
Vent mocked-up:
Riveted-in:
Cutting the fender liner w/ a 2.25" holesaw:
Finished w/ cutting. Doesn't seem to have any real impact on rigidity or strength the way I arranged the holes.
Installed to car:
One of the biggest modifications planned for the car after the crash at COTA was the swap to Tiger Racing Carbon Fiber doors. This was something I had contemplated for a few years but never could justify the cost involved. Now that the car either needed to be painted or wrapped, I decided to pull the trigger.
As usual, my friends at CorteX Racing were able to help get these parts in-house before end-of-year and keep my rebuild moving forward.
Driver's door removed, carbon door for comparison:
I didn't spend a ton of time really lightening my factory doors, but I thought they would be much lighter than this. I got on a scale, weighed myself, then weighed myself plus each door. Overall, the carbon doors are going to save me about 60-65lbs total after the mirrors and trim are reinstalled! BIG weight reduction and will help to keep me right at the minimum weight for my classing in NASA's ST2 group.
Thanks to a great tip from @the5, I was able to modify the stock door hinges to become "quick release". This will be very helpful in getting the car out of the trailer, now that the doors are not steel. I wouldn't feel comfortable resting my body weight on these doors like I would the stock doors trying to get in the car Dukes-of-Hazzard style within the confines of the trailer. Fortunately, now I can just remove the driver's door entirely for transport, and then put it back on when I unload. Takes about 30 seconds either way with one person.
You simply cut the factory hinge pivot pin, then spread the pin apart with a screwdriver or other suitable wedge. Then get a punch on the cut surface and you can punch out the factory pin from the hinge (both ends are knurled and pressed into the hinge body). Then, replace the pivot pin with a 5/16" diameter quick release pin, minimum length 2.25". I prefer the T-handle ones for the top side, the Ring handle ones are necessary for clearance on the lower hinge.
T-Handles: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3043
Ring Handles: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3050
With these, the door has a very slight play when open, but when shut is rock solid.
QR Pin installed in the factory pivot pin location.
Pins vs. door.
Continued in next post...
In order to (hopefully) solve the issue that forced me to retire from the NASA Championships at COTA after starting from the back and picking off 11 cars, I added some more significant heat shielding to the fuel cell and surrounding trunk floorpan areas. This will hopefully prevent excess exhaust heat from permeating into the fuel cell and trunk area and keep the in-cell fuel pump happy.
I created a wire-mesh "wall" using the existing fuel cell support cage, and then lined that mesh wall with an adhesive aluminum/fiberglass heat shield material. If this continues to prove to be insufficient, I will also consider wrapping the exhaust (just don't have time for that right now)--but this issue didn't come up until 40 minutes into a 45 minute race, so I probably won't have a chance to really test for some time.
Bare mesh riveted to the existing fuel cell "cage":
Heat shield material attached to the mesh:
A small sample of the mesh to see the layers:
More of the shield material applied to the areas surrounding the mufflers and pass-by areas for the over-axle pipes:
A nice-to-have upgrade that I completed during this time was to enable a nitrogen-filling capability for my shocks at the track. This ensures that I can 1) make sure I have the correct pressures in the rear shock canisters and 2) allow me to adjust the canister pressures at the track, both without having to mooch equipment from fellow racers.
Assembled Nitrogen filling system:
Longacre digital gauge w/ 2-stage valve:
Quick-disconnect installed to the hose and gauge:
Another nice-to-have change that I implemented was installing a set of fender vents to (presumably) help vent trapped air out of the wheelwells at speed.
I don't have any test data but since I was already this far tearing the car apart I figured it is worth a shot. I used a set of CF 2013-14 hood vents from @AJ Hartman Aero and cut the fenders and fender liners to fit and vent. I matched the surface area of the cuts in the fender well to the surface area of the openings in the vents.
Marking the cut location on the fenders using some tape and green posterboard:
Cut made:
Vent mocked-up:
Riveted-in:
Cutting the fender liner w/ a 2.25" holesaw:
Finished w/ cutting. Doesn't seem to have any real impact on rigidity or strength the way I arranged the holes.
Installed to car:
One of the biggest modifications planned for the car after the crash at COTA was the swap to Tiger Racing Carbon Fiber doors. This was something I had contemplated for a few years but never could justify the cost involved. Now that the car either needed to be painted or wrapped, I decided to pull the trigger.
As usual, my friends at CorteX Racing were able to help get these parts in-house before end-of-year and keep my rebuild moving forward.
Driver's door removed, carbon door for comparison:
I didn't spend a ton of time really lightening my factory doors, but I thought they would be much lighter than this. I got on a scale, weighed myself, then weighed myself plus each door. Overall, the carbon doors are going to save me about 60-65lbs total after the mirrors and trim are reinstalled! BIG weight reduction and will help to keep me right at the minimum weight for my classing in NASA's ST2 group.
Thanks to a great tip from @the5, I was able to modify the stock door hinges to become "quick release". This will be very helpful in getting the car out of the trailer, now that the doors are not steel. I wouldn't feel comfortable resting my body weight on these doors like I would the stock doors trying to get in the car Dukes-of-Hazzard style within the confines of the trailer. Fortunately, now I can just remove the driver's door entirely for transport, and then put it back on when I unload. Takes about 30 seconds either way with one person.
You simply cut the factory hinge pivot pin, then spread the pin apart with a screwdriver or other suitable wedge. Then get a punch on the cut surface and you can punch out the factory pin from the hinge (both ends are knurled and pressed into the hinge body). Then, replace the pivot pin with a 5/16" diameter quick release pin, minimum length 2.25". I prefer the T-handle ones for the top side, the Ring handle ones are necessary for clearance on the lower hinge.
T-Handles: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3043
Ring Handles: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3050
With these, the door has a very slight play when open, but when shut is rock solid.
QR Pin installed in the factory pivot pin location.
Pins vs. door.
Continued in next post...
Last edited: