EBC brakes and a wheel question ?

[BluPil]

OK, finished my second track day....I am certainly what is keeping the car from going faster. My prior experience is 15 years ago racing a CBR-600RR with CCS. I plan on doing HPDE events (Maybe 5-6 year), been reading as much as I can on brake pads and no one ever mentions EBC? they are a great pad for bikes and seem to have what I am looking for for the car (Bluestuff NDX), something I can run on the street and use on the track. I don't think I am at the point to having dedicated pads just for track days..... has anyone here used EBC? Is there really any downside to PP2 wheels for the track?

Thanks

 

[Mad Hatter]

I use EBC pads in my jeeps and a Alfa Romeo and they are great budget deal for decent pads. But for our cars I would try out something like a Pagid RS29. works well cold and lasts for ever, Does not eat disks...

Sounds great until you see the price!! But they are really worth it as a dual purpose pad.

 

[byronj]

Welcome to TMO

IMHO and I used to race a GSXR 600/1000. EBC pads are good on a bike and a light import. Once you start pushing a heavier car on EBC pads you’re just going to eat through them. And once you do a cost analysis the amount of EBC pads you go through compared to a Padgid, Raybestos, G-LOC (I know I know keep the comments about G-LOC, they have done me right. LOL), etc. It will be cheaper to invest in them right away.
As for street / track pads, the simple answer is NO. What I did is I have dedicated track pads and my street pads are compatible with the track pad compounds so I can swap them out. I even have extra stock street rotors in the event I want to conserve my GiroDisc rotors.
You will get other answers from seasoned racers here but this has been what has worked for me since I’ve been tracking my GT350.

Good rule of thumb- invest in quality pads, rotors and brake fluid. Don’t skimp on any safety equipment.

 

[EF1]

I have a friend that runs EBC pads on his 2008. He likes them since he can use them on the street and the track without having to change pads, but they do seem to wear quickly. He doesn't work on his own car and is at the mercy of a local shop to do brake work.

 

[BluPil]

is there any difference in the rear brakes for the non-PP/ PP1 ?

 

[steeda5]

Ran a set of EBC yellows on my Boss 302 Brembos when I was a doing HPDE event a while back and they preformed pretty dang good for there price point. I had brake ducts on the car. I thought that the wear was not bad at all unlike some of the other comments here. I would think they were in the Hawk HPS range or better. So not all that bad of a pad if your looking to save a few bucks.

 

[BluPil]

So Im trying out a set of EBC Blue NDX pads, just got them put on today, will keep updating when I have more to share. The front pads came with grease that looks to have copper suspended in it for the pins and slide area. (10,500 miles for reference).

 

[JeffV8]

BluPil , if I was you I would be investing in longer wheel studs for front hubs and not use the bolt on spacers. I didn’t feel safe with them on my car..

 

[Mad Hatter]

BluPil , if I was you I would be investing in longer wheel studs for front hubs and not use the bolt on spacers. I didn’t feel safe with them on my car..

Yes!!!

 

[BluPil]

BluPil , if I was you I would be investing in longer wheel studs for front hubs and not use the bolt on spacers. I didn’t feel safe with them on my car..

Im looking into it but not from a safety perspective, from a convenance perspective, I have to run different size spacers for the road/track wheels, would rather have something that doesn't have to be bolted every time I change wheels.

 

[Coz]

Im looking into it but not from a safety perspective,

I guess a good outcome for the wrong reason is ok. I hope that safety is higher on your list when you're contemplating other mods to your car. Especially if you'll be on a track with others.

 

[byronj]

Dude- those spacers need to go. Install longer studs and buy spacers in different sizes if you need more than one size. You're asking for trouble on the track with those things.

 

[Bill Pemberton]

We could spend way too much time letting you know the numerous reasons why your setup is not one you should use on the track, but just take note of how many are telling you to go with long ARP studs --- it is important.

Have used EBC and sold ( company I used to work for ) pads and though great for bikes , they really are not a pad I would recommend for track use. Contact KNS Brakes or Optimum Performance on this site and get a quality set of track pads and make absolutely sure you let them know where you will be running. This is quite important , because the pads one would recommend for Road America would likely be different than one who may run a track like Gingerman or Buttonwillow , for example.

This site has a bunch of Trackraticus Ancientus who are advising you based on decades of experience, so please listen and chuck your set up ---- safety is not always convenient!!

 

[BluPil]

thanks for the input, called Steeda a found out I can take the studs out of the spacers I have and still use them with the longer studs, New FPR hubs with longer studs on the way, as a side note if you want me to listen to your opinion don't assume I have no regard for safety..... don't bother posting on my thread if "I hope that safety is higher on your list" is in your post. Really thanks again for the info.

 

[Coz]

don't assume I have no regard for safety...

I never said you had no regard for safety. I said I hope you have a higher regard. I said this because you yourself said convenience was a bigger reason for you than safety. Ergo, while I'm sure safety is important to you, safety can be of higher importance than convenience.

 

[mikeD4V]

The factory (front) pads are Ferodo so you can swap in Ferodo race pads at the track and keep the stock pads for street duty. No need to re-bed the compounds. If you're swapping wheels at the track, add another 5-10min per side for the pad swap. If choosing this option, would suggest the DS1.11 to start as it has a linear torque curve, lasts a long time for a race pad, and doesn't eat rotors. At 5-6 events per year, the DS1.11 should last 2-3 years. DSUno is more bite with the trade off being less pad life. Both cost about the same, ~$500. I used to drive to the track (~80mi) with DS1.11/DSUno without issue, some noise here and there but track tires were making noise too.

I've been running steeda 25mm spacers and it looks like they're just bolt on spacers with the studs removed.

 

[Mad Hatter]

thanks for the input, called Steeda a found out I can take the studs out of the spacers I have and still use them with the longer studs, New FPR hubs with longer studs on the way, as a side note if you want me to listen to your opinion don't assume I have no regard for safety..... don't bother posting on my thread if "I hope that safety is higher on your list" is in your post. Really thanks again for the info.

thanks for the input, called Steeda a found out I can take the studs out of the spacers I have and still use them with the longer studs, New FPR hubs with longer studs on the way, as a side note if you want me to listen to your opinion don't assume I have no regard for safety..... don't bother posting on my thread if "I hope that safety is higher on your list" is in your post. Really thanks again for the

thanks for the input, called Steeda a found out I can take the studs out of the spacers I have and still use them with the longer studs, New FPR hubs with longer studs on the way, as a side note if you want me to listen to your opinion don't assume I have no regard for safety..... don't bother posting on my thread if "I hope that safety is higher on your list" is in your post. Really thanks again for the info.

This a great site for real info, nobody wants too see you risk a crash over something we have all been over a hundred times before... our big heavy cars WILL break those bolt on spacers in no time (seen several). I guess we would rather be a little irritating then stay quite and have you get hurt.

Same goes for the brake pads... Once tried to save some money and got a set of Hawk HPS pads for a track day... I crashed. Took me a long time to trust my brakes again.

 

[TMSBOSS]

Blupil

Like MH said, we want all the folks who come to the site to have the best chance at enjoying safe track time. The bolt on spacers with marginal pads may not get you there. You should be able to add the ARP studs and knock out the studs in the spacers you have and run safely. No need to drop coin on new spacers.
I made the jump from stock pads to Pagid pads and love them.......except for the price. I guess a set of quality pads is better than a trip to the body shop and then the good pads like MH mentioned. Some of us have learned the hard way and have a pile of parts that just did not do what we wanted/expected of them. Just trying to help folks avoid our mistakes/expenses.

 

[BluPil]

The factory (front) pads are Ferodo so you can swap in Ferodo race pads at the track and keep the stock pads for street duty. No need to re-bed the compounds. If you're swapping wheels at the track, add another 5-10min per side for the pad swap. If choosing this option, would suggest the DS1.11 to start as it has a linear torque curve, lasts a long time for a race pad, and doesn't eat rotors. At 5-6 events per year, the DS1.11 should last 2-3 years. DSUno is more bite with the trade off being less pad life. Both cost about the same, ~$500. I used to drive to the track (~80mi) with DS1.11/DSUno without issue, some noise here and there but track tires were making noise too.

I've been running steeda 25mm spacers and it looks like they're just bolt on spacers with the studs removed.

curious where you got them, no Ferodo website even shows a product for my car yet alone a dealer.....

 

[TMSBOSS]

Full Tilt Boogie lists Fedrodo Pads.

2015 S550 Mustang Brake Parts