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Ford Racing front hub question

I am installing a set of Ford Racing front hubs (S197), and they came with new wheel bearing nuts. The original nuts were a cool design- two pieces, with the nut able to turn independently from the washer. The new ones from Ford are one piece. Since Ford sent new ones, I'm using them.

For those who have done this, doesn't it seem like the original nut is a better design?
 
I have one weekend on the one piece design with no problems. The real fun was getting the old ones off and making sure that the new install was up to the 250 ft lbs. If and when I have to do again I won't take my torque wrench to the top limit again. Might do 225 and see how much nut rotation happens from 175-200 and 200-225, see if there is a progressive decline or the same and finish off with a bar and cheater pipe the same length as the wrench.
 

xr7

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I have one weekend on the one piece design with no problems. The real fun was getting the old ones off and making sure that the new install was up to the 250 ft lbs. If and when I have to do again I won't take my torque wrench to the top limit again. Might do 225 and see how much nut rotation happens from 175-200 and 200-225, see if there is a progressive decline or the same and finish off with a bar and cheater pipe the same length as the wrench.
Why wouldn't you torque it to spec?
 

TMSBOSS

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Why wouldn't you torque it to spec?
My wrench maxed at 250. The ones I put on are there. I didn't like taking the wrench to the max. The next set will be there also but makes me nervous. I hate to brake a $400 wrench. It's better than a $4000+ wreck though...

I was talking with one of the Porsche guys. They have the center hub that needs 425 ft lbs! You should see that wrench bend. Lol
 
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My wrench maxed at 250. The ones I put on are there. I didn't like taking the wrench to the max. The next set will be there also but makes me nervous. I hate to brake a $400 wrench. It's better than a $4000+ wreck though...

I was talking with one of the Porsche guys. They have the center hub that needs 425 ft lbs! You should see that wrench bend. Lol
been there.. recently
 

xr7

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No problem pulling max on the torque wrench. You should try torqueing main bearings on a Cummins, Cat or Detroit in the chassis. Dripping oil, wrapped around the front axle and pulling for all you're worth just to here that magical "click", one down and only 13 more to go. That's how they broke you in at the local Cummins shop, 6 months probation and mostly doing rods and mains.
 

Norm Peterson

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why? the bar is just sitting on the nut, a shorter bar will need more effort to reach the setting, a longer less, you might have to figure length of the bar, but that would be all.
I'll give you that a standard-length breaker bar might have about a foot of leverage.

But if I weigh 160 lbs and I'm standing on the scale, I'm going to read 160 when not applying any torque to the nut. Seems I'd have to be deadlifting another 250 lbs to properly torque these particular nuts. Or 410 on the scale unless it has a tare function.


Norm
 

xr7

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I'll give you that a standard-length breaker bar might have about a foot of leverage.

But if I weigh 160 lbs and I'm standing on the scale, I'm going to read 160 when not applying any torque to the nut. Seems I'd have to be deadlifting another 250 lbs to properly torque these particular nuts. Or 410 on the scale unless it has a tare function.


Norm
Do you have to take spring rate and roll rate into consideration using the scale method 🤔 ???
 
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you guys are making this way too complicated,

here's another way
if the lug nuts should be tightened to 150 foot-pounds and you weigh 200 pounds, you would stand 9 inches along the breaker bar. Nine inches is ¾ of one foot. The formula looks like this: .75 X 200 = 150-foot pounds.
so to get that 250 or whatever, just move up and down the bar. Or do the numbers and your weight to the total on the scale.
 
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xr7

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Or buy a 3/4" torque wrench priced from $80.00 to $3000.00 or...........borrow one from one of your buddies.
 

TMSBOSS

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you guys are making this way too complicated,
Agree. If you have a wrench which is capable of a 250 lbs torque, use it.
The industry standard is 3 to 5% accuracy. Have your wrench checked once a year. Some shops have a calibration check device they use daily. When was the last time your wrench was calibrated?
 
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Agree. If you have a wrench which is capable of a 250 lbs torque, use it.
The industry standard is 3 to 5% accuracy. Have your wrench checked once a year. Some shops have a calibration check device they use daily. When was the last time your wrench was calibrated?
Truth be told, I think I sent it back to Snap On for a recalibration around 1979
 

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