Goodyear 3R ?

[JeffV8]

Got good deal on Goodyear F1 super car 3R’s How
do you break in a tire??

 

[KazarS197]

Im assuming you looking for longevity and consistency. Avon and Cooper ( related companies) have basically the same information on scub in.

User Advice & Scrubbing In

www.avontyres.com

Cooper Tires Motorsport - User Advice & Scrubbing In

For most purposes, racing tires will benefit from an appropriate 'scrubbing in' procedure. This provides the best combination of performance and longevity.

www.coopertire.co.uk

Rob is the tyre guy.

He has suggestions in this thread way at the bottom of this page.

Scrubbing in new slicks

I bought some of last years IMSA Continental slicks new and was wondering if it's necessary to perform the break-in procedure for track day use. According to Hoosier, I heat cycle them on day 1 according to their procedure then after one run they are put away for at least 24 hours. That pretty...

trackmustangsonline.com

 

[JeffV8]

I was wondering if I could do that on the street.. heat them up then let them sit until track night.

 

[KazarS197]

To the top. Does anyone else have an answer for @JeffV8 . I'm curious too.

 

[Dave_W]

I've heat-cycled Hoosiers & other R-comp tires for autocross by doing figure-eights in a parking lot about a mile from home. Start really easy and work up to 7-8/10ths over a couple minutes. Easy drive back home and take them off the car for 48 hours after heat-cycling.

 

[JeffV8]

I've heat-cycled Hoosiers & other R-comp tires for autocross by doing figure-eights in a parking lot about a mile from home. Start really easy and work up to 7-8/10ths over a couple minutes. Easy drive back home and take them off the car for 48 hours after heat-cycling.

Thanks Dave. Now I have to find a parking lot that won’t hassle me lol

 

[blacksheep-1]

I'm not sure that will get them hot enough, the idea is to warm them up but not grind off any tread, I'd just drive them on the highway for about 20 miles in the heat of the day.
This is a bit of a black art, I've warme dthem up gradually, I've had to use qualifying to do it, I've done it at Daytona when the weather was cold, and I've burned them up and dipped them in ice water for a specific track. I think gradually would be the best way

 

[honeybadger]

while I am no tire wizard like blacksheep - I haven't been able to tell much of a difference between just sending it and properly breaking in r compound DOT-approved tires like the 3Rs. They all last about ~2 days worth of HPDE session and are fast the entire 2 days.

So now I just send it from session 1 until they're done

 

[Dave_W]

the idea is to warm them up but not grind off any tread

The tire guru has it right. My entire goal doing the easy figure-8s was to generate heat into the carcass without sliding the contact patch. Ancient article from Tire Rack, but good info, and instead of figure-8s they do 100 highway miles -

https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/is-tire-rack-heat-cycling-as-good-as-oncar-heat-cycling

Here are some of the details I've learned over the years on heat-cycling:

• The goal is to break down medium-length polymer chains in the rubber into shorter chains through both heating and flexing, and then have them repolymerize into longer chains during a rest period
• The tire needs to get to 170-180F across the entire tread face - if you're running a good amount of camber, do some turning to heat the outside; ideally that temperature is into the carcass, so heat slowly
• The tire needs to be flexed, but DO NOT slide the tire
• The tire needs to rest with no load (off the car, or put the car on jackstands) for at least 24 hours, preferably 48
• Tire Rack does it the right way, for a reasonable price
• Tire Rack's heat cycling may not remove all the mold-release agent from the tread face, and some tires may still take a few runs to "clean up" and give best times

Also, I think the general consensus is that tire life (and degredation from age) starts at the first heat cycle.