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Replacement rear swaybar drop links for a Laguna Seca?

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120
278
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Auckland, New Zealand
Hi team,

I have a clunky rear sway bar that is caused by a worn bush in one of the drop links. The rear swaybar on the Laguna Seca is 26mm (CR3Z-5C488-J) and the OEM replacements from Ford appear NLA.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a solution? I can't seem to find any direct replacements from other brands. I assume I could remove them and get the current drop links re-bushed somehow, or can you get a 25mm one from a normal Boss (CR3Z-5C488-S) and modify (clearance) the bush to fit the 26mm bar?

Any help is much appreciated.
 
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Hey FilxNZ,
A couple options for you.
1. Get this Energy Suspension kit (I have one I don't need anymore if you cannot find one) which is a 24mm and bore it out to make it 26mm with an adjustable reamer (link below). I would use a hose clamp around the cylindrical bushing to control the bushing from expanding and bore it out.
2. If you have no other options I have this stock Boss 302 sway bar not being used anymore that has about 9500 miles on it. I could remove the links and send them to you. I don't know anything shipping to NZ but we could figure it out.


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179
67
ny
Try ford giant parts they have allot of oem parts.
Also try ford racing there billet links come in 3 different sizes. What size???
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,247
4,236
Santiago, Chile
If you are using a square tire setup or tracking with sticker tires, the car you will probably get better results with a 18mm rear bar. For me the thicker rear bars were for the OEM 255F/285R tire setup. Thinner bar, more traction... to the point were many go barless in the rear.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,247
4,236
Santiago, Chile
Just checked out your profile again. With the 315 square setup you have on the car, it will handle much better with a 18mm rear bar. You will get a big improvement in rear traction that will be notable on the street or track.
 
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Eibach makes these drop links for their kits. I ordered them separately from them by calling many years ago. They're sized for their 25mm rear bar, but given the way the cap screws on and the fact the bushing is just stock that's cut to size, I don't see why you couldn't make this work as an option.
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Hi team,

I have a clunky rear sway bar that is caused by a worn bush in one of the drop links. The rear swaybar on the Laguna Seca is 26mm (CR3Z-5C488-J) and the OEM replacements from Ford appear NLA.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a solution? I can't seem to find any direct replacements from other brands. I assume I could remove them and get the current drop links re-bushed somehow, or can you get a 25mm one from a normal Boss (CR3Z-5C488-S) and modify (clearance) the bush to fit the 26mm bar?

Any help is much appreciated.
I remember working with this bushing stabar link design.. at first it was squawky as all hell until we added NYE 880 lube but the other issue is super high durometer on the stabar side. Normally i'd say don't go aftermarket but if you are not worried about squawk noise i'd go with an aftermarket link with a much stiffer bushing.
 
Hey FilxNZ,
A couple options for you.
1. Get this Energy Suspension kit (I have one I don't need anymore if you cannot find one) which is a 24mm and bore it out to make it 26mm with an adjustable reamer (link below). I would use a hose clamp around the cylindrical bushing to control the bushing from expanding and bore it out.
2. If you have no other options I have this stock Boss 302 sway bar not being used anymore that has about 9500 miles on it. I could remove the links and send them to you. I don't know anything shipping to NZ but we could figure it out.


View attachment 92725

View attachment 92726

View attachment 92727

View attachment 92728
Yup.. the yellow 25mm was for the stock Boss 302.. the 26mm was for the Laguna.
 
Eibach makes these drop links for their kits. I ordered them separately from them by calling many years ago. They're sized for their 25mm rear bar, but given the way the cap screws on and the fact the bushing is just stock that's cut to size, I don't see why you couldn't make this work as an option.
View attachment 92729
View attachment 92730
Problem is the loads on the big bars are WAY WAY too high for this bushing link design anything over 20mm or so. And when folks start asking for 25mm rear bars, and even 26mm - you can see the loads going way up and bushing strains going with it. hence the ultra stiff duro (but that is a horrible idea too). -what you need is a link that has a much larger wider bushing to distribute that load. that one above looks to be the same width.
 
120
278
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Auckland, New Zealand
Thanks everyone for your suggestions, I really appreciate it.

I spent a bunch of time on it over the weekend. I ended up finding a Centric link on Rock Auto that says it's "26mm". I tried cross checking it with other sites and it's inconclusive as to whether it actually is 26mm (or mis-labled), but they were cheap so i ordered them and will try that out.

I would love to try the 18mm sway bar, is that still recommended for someone on near stock suspension? Or better for those on higher rate springs? I will look at doing that maybe for a longer term solution. Alternatively look at an adjustable sway bar, though it's hard to know what the various adjustments compare to when evaluating a bar. They seem to be mainly aimed at going "stiffer" which is the opposite of what seems to be the popular suggestion of going to a smaller bar.
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,247
4,236
Santiago, Chile
Yes, the "Street" performance shops always try to sell stiffer bars, the car will corner flat and make the driver feel very cool.... slow, but cool!! My guess was that Ford told the Boss team that the car had to have 255F/285R tires. So you would need the larger rear bar too keep the car handling more neutral with those skinny fronts. As soon as you put on some meaty 315 fronts, the balance goes out the window. I went from the stock bar to a 18mm one and loved the way the car felt.. Now its without a bar and that can feel a little weird some times, but its faster still. That is with coilovers etc, but the same idea applies.

Try getting a 18mm bar and trying it out some time, its a quick item to change at the track. They used to be really cheap, I think I paid US$50 for it.

Most adjustable bars go from stiff to really stiff... and they are pricy
 

JDee

Ancient Racer
1,807
2,012
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
5 miles from Mosport
Hm-m-m-m. Got me wondering.
I just got all the stuff for 305's square on 11's for my Mach 1, which came with 255/275 tires.
I can't believe Ford did that goofy staggered setup, catering to the show 'n shine crowd or what? It would be safer for average Joe I guess since it's pushy at the limit with staggered tires.
At any rate, kind of wondering now if I'm going to need a softer rear bar. It has magnaride, wonder what effect that might have?
 

Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
5,247
4,236
Santiago, Chile
Hm-m-m-m. Got me wondering.
I just got all the stuff for 305's square on 11's for my Mach 1, which came with 255/275 tires.
I can't believe Ford did that goofy staggered setup, catering to the show 'n shine crowd or what? It would be safer for average Joe I guess since it's pushy at the limit with staggered tires.
At any rate, kind of wondering now if I'm going to need a softer rear bar. It has magnaride, wonder what effect that might have?

At least with the Mach1, they assumed you would go to the track with the performance package. which was with 305F/315R and some aero goodies and "unique" chassi tuning.. Maybe Bill would now more about that.
 

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