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That’s what I thought too until it locked up the tires but maybe it was a sensor malfunction. Still trying to figure it out. I had no problems three races prior with it out.
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ABS problems.
- Thread starterMichaelTomany
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I know for a fact I have it when unplugged. I've been offroading in wet grass with it unplugged and ABS activated. It was super clear - you could both hear it and feel it in the wheel/brake pedal. But maybe the plug being unplugged changes the way ABS works? No clue there
FWIW - I have locked up a front wheel on cold slicks going into T1 at COTA with too much brake pressure - and that was in track mode with the dyno plug still plugged in.
Mad Hatter
Gotta go Faster
It this Dyno plug only relevant for the S550?
Just to weigh-in here. I wired a switch to the dyno plug, so I switch it once during a track weekend and don't have to remember to hold the T/C button down for 10 sec.
All the research I did a few years ago also indicated it did not turn off ABS. Now, I have flat-spotted a tire one time, but I also don't typically feel ABS when threshold braking. I do hear some tire chatter as they fight to slow the car. The flat spot was a surprise, and may have been helped by some debris on track...
Mine is a PP1 GT... Thanks honeybadger for the real-world confirmation of the ABS, good to know!
All the research I did a few years ago also indicated it did not turn off ABS. Now, I have flat-spotted a tire one time, but I also don't typically feel ABS when threshold braking. I do hear some tire chatter as they fight to slow the car. The flat spot was a surprise, and may have been helped by some debris on track...
Mine is a PP1 GT... Thanks honeybadger for the real-world confirmation of the ABS, good to know!
Read my post on the pin 5 ABS module fix. Breaking the CAN bus high signal connection to the ABS module allows the ABS module to work but prevents the Traction Control Module from communicating with the ABS module. Nanny controls are 100% off. I tested mod and it works. I did it on an S197. Can Bus high signal wire at ABS connector was white with blue stripe on S197. Check S550 wiring to confirm wire color.
Even with stability control and T/C turned off, I feel as if the ABS is too heavy-handed. It has a ton of 'stability control' baked into not allowing tires to lock. When it relaxes the brake pressure on an inside tire to limit locking, that also puts an understeer moment on the car. If I overcook an entry, trying to carry a little brake into the corner does not help the front end of the car as it should. It *should* tuck the nose as you scrub the speed, because you're shifting tire load forward, but it really doesn't. The car will understeer until completely off the brakes, and then the front wakes up and starts to turn. I have a hunch that at least some of this behavior is the ABS not allowing a sufficient difference in slip ratio across the axle.
My guess is that various ABS modules are programmed to allow the amount if slip deemed appropriate given the model. I bet the Ford Performance controller is pretty sporty for an OEM-type system, but, for the cash, it should be. I bought a GT500 CFTP ABS distribution block off EBay for $100 and will see if that changes anything. (I've been threatening to put this on for 6 months. I just have to get off my ass and do it.)
Keep us posted
Really interested to see your results. Waiting patiently...
The "dyno plug" does not affect the ABS, just the AdvanceTrac / traction control. You do NOT want to disable the ABS in any modern car, unless you like going slower and flat spotting tires.
We have used the Ford ABS systems in 2011-14 (S197) and 2015-up (S550) cars to win a lot of competitions that take extreme braking - Optima autocross and Speed Stop events. Racing against comparable GM cars in these events you have an unfair advantage, because the Ford ABS programming is come of the best in the world. in some NASA series (AI) the Ford ABS actually carries with it a weight penalty - because it is so much better than most.
We have successfully swapped in the later S197 ABS into GM cars, like this C5 Corvette above. Best braking Corvette I've ever driven, by far. Now we've learned since then that swapping a BMW ABS into a GM car is a LOT easier.
The first thing I tell people when they have ABS trouble on a Ford is to pull the speed sensors from each hub and make sure they aren't COVERED in metal fuzz. This happens when metallic compound brake pads wear heavily, and the magnets in the sensors can attract this stuff. Get's too thick and the sensors no longer send a good signal. Clean off the metal, if any is visible, and try again.
We just completed another BMW Mk60 ABS swap on our 4th different chassis. One thing we have learned in all of this swapping is that all modern ABS systems can be diagnosed, tested, and even "programmed" to a small degree. The better OBD scanners can do it, but for Fords the Forscan software is the right tool to use.
I just took some video of this Matco Maximus scanner reading each wheel speed sensor on a car as we rotated each tire slowly. We scrolled through all 4 wheels to verify function. So everything is fixable, and don't "cut off your nose to spite your face" when it comes to Ford ABS. Fix it, use it, rely on it - it works VERY WELL.
Cheers,
We have used the Ford ABS systems in 2011-14 (S197) and 2015-up (S550) cars to win a lot of competitions that take extreme braking - Optima autocross and Speed Stop events. Racing against comparable GM cars in these events you have an unfair advantage, because the Ford ABS programming is come of the best in the world. in some NASA series (AI) the Ford ABS actually carries with it a weight penalty - because it is so much better than most.
We have successfully swapped in the later S197 ABS into GM cars, like this C5 Corvette above. Best braking Corvette I've ever driven, by far. Now we've learned since then that swapping a BMW ABS into a GM car is a LOT easier.
The first thing I tell people when they have ABS trouble on a Ford is to pull the speed sensors from each hub and make sure they aren't COVERED in metal fuzz. This happens when metallic compound brake pads wear heavily, and the magnets in the sensors can attract this stuff. Get's too thick and the sensors no longer send a good signal. Clean off the metal, if any is visible, and try again.
We just completed another BMW Mk60 ABS swap on our 4th different chassis. One thing we have learned in all of this swapping is that all modern ABS systems can be diagnosed, tested, and even "programmed" to a small degree. The better OBD scanners can do it, but for Fords the Forscan software is the right tool to use.
I just took some video of this Matco Maximus scanner reading each wheel speed sensor on a car as we rotated each tire slowly. We scrolled through all 4 wheels to verify function. So everything is fixable, and don't "cut off your nose to spite your face" when it comes to Ford ABS. Fix it, use it, rely on it - it works VERY WELL.
Cheers,
Have you tried any different model Mustang/Shelby units against one another? I have no doubt that the Ford Performance controller works well, but I am seeing if I can get most of the way there for <10% of the cost.
Terry how u explain though my "ice pedal mode" when the plug is in ?
While when i unplug the ice mode is gone?
While when i unplug the ice mode is gone?
Is the 'ice pedal' where the pedal is firm, but there's no stopping power?
That is correct
On our 2011 GT (S197) we ran for 2 seasons with the stock ABS computer, and with giant Hoosiers and aero it would often get confused, turn the AdvancedTrac on or throw a fault.
Going to this Ford Racing ABS module (below) fixed that issue, as it does away with the AdvanceTrac and the ABS was flawless. But the ABS never faltered on that car.
On every S550 I have ever driven, I only saw an AdvancedTrac fault once (on my 2018 GT, below), but never an ABS issue.
Rain or shine, 200TW or A7s, track or autocross, sideways with the rear wheels spinning... the ABS always worked well with regular 1.4 g stops on A7s. That's the mechanical grip limit of the tires so I never had a need to try the "Shelby" or Ford Racing 350S modules.
Lots of things on your particular build make so sense to me, including your "Ice Mode" issues.
I've never heard of anyone else getting Ice Mode in a modern Ford product. Your issue seems to be a sample set of one.
So just a fault unit?On our 2011 GT (S197) we ran for 2 seasons with the stock ABS computer, and with giant Hoosiers and aero it would often get confused, turn the AdvancedTrac on or throw a fault.
View attachment 74502
Going to this Ford Racing ABS module (below) fixed that issue, as it does away with the AdvanceTrac and the ABS was flawless. But the ABS never faltered on that car.
View attachment 74503
On every S550 I have ever driven, I only saw an AdvancedTrac fault once (on my 2018 GT, below), but never an ABS issue.
View attachment 74504
Rain or shine, 200TW or A7s, track or autocross, sideways with the rear wheels spinning... the ABS always worked well with regular 1.4 g stops on A7s. That's the mechanical grip limit of the tires so I never had a need to try the "Shelby" or Ford Racing 350S modules.
Lots of things on your particular build make so sense to me, including your "Ice Mode" issues.
I have been running with the "dyno plug" removed for over a year and I still experience this "ICE" mode pedal from time to time. Removing the plug does not disable the ABS in my experience. I have never locked up the front tires and am running a DTC 70 front pad. I am sure they have the power to overcome the tire.On our 2011 GT (S197) we ran for 2 seasons with the stock ABS computer, and with giant Hoosiers and aero it would often get confused, turn the AdvancedTrac on or throw a fault.
View attachment 74502
Going to this Ford Racing ABS module (below) fixed that issue, as it does away with the AdvanceTrac and the ABS was flawless. But the ABS never faltered on that car.
View attachment 74503
On every S550 I have ever driven, I only saw an AdvancedTrac fault once (on my 2018 GT, below), but never an ABS issue.
View attachment 74504
Rain or shine, 200TW or A7s, track or autocross, sideways with the rear wheels spinning... the ABS always worked well with regular 1.4 g stops on A7s. That's the mechanical grip limit of the tires so I never had a need to try the "Shelby" or Ford Racing 350S modules.
Lots of things on your particular build make so sense to me, including your "Ice Mode" issues.
I hope not to derail this thread but have a related question. Is the ABS intrusion on these cars not the typical/old school high frequency pulsation in the pedal that was common on older vehicles? I've never gotten that from this car but am also pretty certain I've had some sort of intrusion from ABS and it felt more subtle but with more yawing moments as each wheel feels like its doing its own thing. Its really hard to describe.
Are you running with TC and stability control off?
Yes.
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