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S197 BOSS 302 Race Car Build Thread Build Thread

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steveespo

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neema said:
Can you use the Watson mount with the factory steering wheel?

No I don't think so, I tried to mount my traqmate with a similar bracket and the airbag hub is not symmetrical, when you rotate the steering wheel it will hit.

Arizona
A couple questions, I got the Sparco wheel kit from Rehagen, when you remove the airbag and clockspring what gets disabled? Advance Trac? ABS? Airbag light (of course)?
Also my kit didn't have the rubber boot. I emailed Bill and he said that sparco doesn't include them any more as the wrinkle finish is enough. :mad:
Steve
 

ArizonaBOSS

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I am talking to Watson about the wheel but the quick cliff's notes is that they don't think they've tried it.
The bracket is pretty simple and you don't need to use the white spacers pictured--so it wouldn't be too difficult to fab up something on your own that would work just as well.

Steve:

When the clockspring gets ditched, you lose the turn signal automatic canceling, which is probably the biggest annoyance. Airbag light will obviously be permanently lit after you remove the bag.
No effect to ABS. I am running the FRPP R/S module, and my restraints control module is still plugged in. I see that the fuel pump driver runs a signal line through here so I think that's why the RCM is retained in the race cars.

I didn't have advancetrac after the FRPP ABS module went in, so I can't comment on that.

OH and I have the sparco hub adapter as well, IT CAME WITH A BOOT!!! I ordered mine from Saferacer or Amazon or something. I didn't like how close it was with the stock seats so I got the NRG short hub adapter. I might still try the sparco adapter again once the race seat is installed.
 
steveespo said:
A couple questions, I got the Sparco wheel kit from Rehagen, when you remove the airbag and clockspring what gets disabled? Advance Trac?

Steve, when I tried removing my clock spring I was getting advance trak warnings in the dash and trouble codes in the pcm. That's why I stayed away from adding an aftermarket wheel. I was thinking about modifying an adapter that would have the cutout for the clockspring but gave up for now as I have too much stuff to do as it is.
 
steveespo said:
No I don't think so, I tried to mount my traqmate with a similar bracket and the airbag hub is not symmetrical, when you rotate the steering wheel it will hit.

Bummer. That could have been another alternative to finding places to mount gauges inside the car. A little pricey and involved, but then again you can do a lot more with dash units.
 

ArizonaBOSS

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Grant 302 said:
I was meaning to ask if you got that plate for the display. No cage pics yet?

I am stopping by the shop on Friday to take a peek!
 

ArizonaBOSS

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OK I was selling some parts today and was in the area of the shop. Progress already happening!!

My seat has arrived! It looks like the seat bases the shop wanted to use are going to take a while to arrive, so they might use the Watson Racing bases instead:

u1Ylt5u.jpg


Car in the shop getting work started (YES, the doors are being zipped out later):
Jty6Pwo.jpg

Main hoop fabricated, they were getting ready to tack it in-place when I showed up:
lKhimIJ.jpg

They were saying they should be pretty much done with the cage by Saturday, so I should have some more progress pics when I head back this Friday!
 
6,618
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Depending on the rules structure you may need the tube welded 100% around, some sanctioning bodies only require 75%. The reason I mention this is that (obviously) it would be preferred to weld the tubes 100%. normally you drop the cage through the floor to do that, the stock car guys peel the roof, here's an example.

This was a pre-fab kit I did on a Foxbody..

DSC_0065.jpg

DSC_0075.jpg

this is where the tubes get welded 100%

DSC_0077.jpg

Basically you drill holes in the floor slightly bigger than the cage tubes. Then tack weld the plates to the floor and lay out the cage, and weld it, then pull the plates and drop it through the floor to weld the tops of the tubing. At that point the cage goes back up, the plates get re-installed and then a "doubler" plate goes on the bottom side of the floor. (1/8 inch on top and another on the bottom) In this case I welded some scrap tubing 2.5 x 1/2 inch on the lower plate to act as a locator for the floor jack. This way you jack the car up on the cage and the jack won't slip....

finished top plate

DSC_0081.jpg

bottom (jack) plate

DSC_3671.jpg

finished

DSC_3672.jpg

less the door bars

DSC_0095.jpg


just some ideas.
 

ArizonaBOSS

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It is going to be 100% weld, I'm glad you mentioned dropping through the floor because I was a little concerned when the builder mentioned that but it makes sense
 
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ArizonaGT said:
It is going to be 100% weld, I'm glad you mentioned dropping through the floor because I was a little concerned when the builder mentioned that but it makes sense

much..much better than trying to re-align the roof panel but soemtimes you have no choice
 

ArizonaBOSS

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steveespo said:
A little out there but a body in white with cage is like $14000. About how much is the cage work you are doing? When my car was banged up I considered it but the damage wasn't too severe just cosmetic.
Steve

Cage materials + fab/install + full interior paint is going to be $3750.

Here are some more progress pics, things are getting tacked together in preparation for real welding! They still have to do the front downbars and door bars (obviously).

LvEhxXt.jpg

8CJskl7.jpg

Ln7eISN.jpg
 
Wow it's hard to see a car I once rode it look like that. I'm sure my next ride is going to be a lot more fun! 8)

I like the photo of the bar behind the dash, something you don't see when the car is all together.
 

ArizonaBOSS

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NFSBOSS said:
Wow it's hard to see a car I once rode it look like that. I'm sure my next ride is going to be a lot more fun! 8)

I like the photo of the bar behind the dash, something you don't see when the car is all together.

Hopefully I will have a passenger seat for my Tour of California next summer :)
 
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It's a shame that most racing organizations won't accept chromoly. I understand why because you have to TIG it and it's much easier and user friendly to use mild steel, but you sure can save a ton of weight with CM. Size for size it weighs the same as mild steel but you can use a smaller diameter and/or a thinner wall for the same amount of strength as mild steel. NHRA (as I recall) are the only guys letting people run CM. I just hate the idea of pulling out 400 pounds of weight and then putting 400 pounds of tubing right back in, especially that high in the chassis.
Nice looking cage though, nice work, it's a lot harder than it looks!
 

steveespo

Lord knows I'm a Voodoo Child
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Cookeville TN
blacksheep-1 said:
It's a shame that most racing organizations won't accept chromoly. I understand why because you have to TIG it and it's much easier and user friendly to use mild steel, but you sure can save a ton of weight with CM. Size for size it weighs the same as mild steel but you can use a smaller diameter and/or a thinner wall for the same amount of strength as mild steel. NHRA (as I recall) are the only guys letting people run CM. I just hate the idea of pulling out 400 pounds of weight and then putting 400 pounds of tubing right back in, especially that high in the chassis.
Nice looking cage though, nice work, it's a lot harder than it looks!

I agree but I believe the reason most organizations don't allow it is because of the quality of the welds. Very finicky material that like you state has to be TIG welded. The only way to verify correct penetration and weld depth is through x-ray or ultrasound testing, too cost prohibitive for the sanctioning bodies to police.
Steve
 

ArizonaBOSS

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steveespo said:
Car is coming along very nicely. Cage looks great. .120" DOM tubing?
Steve

Yeah, 1.75" diameter .120 wall DOM. NASA/SCCA regulation for cars this heavy :eek:

Sounds like they are going to TIG all the welds once everything is tacked in-place, the shop owner wants to show off a bit I guess :)
 

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