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Fabman
Dances with Racecars
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Stock plugs/stock 11-1 compression, stock everything.Hey Sal - what spark plug are you running? What compression ratio is your engine?
The ABS doesn't work so might as well just delete it.Wow!! thats going to make a bif difference!!.
It hasn't worked all year so what the hay.... I'll install a driver adjustable proportioning valve so at least I'll have some control of the brake bias.Oh boy, I love my ABS.... But if its not working, what the heck.
Are installing ARP main studs ??? Or stock torque to yield??
Stock everything. Just some fresh parts this time around.Are installing ARP main studs ??? Or stock torque to yield??
Lol.Crap, I will not show you pictures of my 4" brake ducts.
@Fabman, as usual, very nice work. I've got a couple ideas if you need to make a second version. It seems like the 2 set screws hold the adapter to the knob by friction, and hold under both rotational (adjusting the bias) and linear (adapter pulling off the knob) loads. Based on their length, they are interfacing with the "fingers" of the knob rather than the indents.Two 10-32 set screws keep the unit secured to the valve.
Good perspective. Here is my thought process on this.@Fabman, as usual, very nice work. I've got a couple ideas if you need to make a second version. It seems like the 2 set screws hold the adapter to the knob by friction, and hold under both rotational (adjusting the bias) and linear (adapter pulling off the knob) loads. Based on their length, they are interfacing with the "fingers" of the knob rather than the indents.
If you made the adapter longer/deeper, you could have 1 or 2 longer set screws that would go "under" the knob fingers to create a mechanical interference to keep the adapter from pulling / vibrating off the knob. Or you could get really fancy and machine a groove inside the adapter to use a circlip (you'd have to get the circlip around the adjuster shaft).
With the linear load taken off the current set screws, you only need them to transfer rotational load, and could make them larger (both diameter and length) so they fit into the indents of the knob and "push" against the knob fingers, again using mechanical interference instead of friction.
I'm sure based on your knowledge and experience in design & fabrication, and some Loctite, the current adapter will be fine. I'm always thinking of the "belt and suspenders" approach, especially in context of the types of vibration/shock loads from curb-jumping and two-wheels-off events for a track car.