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Gloc R12 vs R16

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I ran Gloc R12s f/r on my gt350 for 2 seasons and was very happy with the crisp initial bite, power and had zero fade. Used that setup at NCM for TT nats last year to a 2nd place finish.

I tried the same on my GT500, which while faster and heavier, has much bigger brakes up front. The OEM pads have good power, bit initial bite and pedal feel was a bit soft, and I could fade them after a few hot laps, especially when they got worn down a bit.
Switch to the R12s and some AP R4 fluid - pedal feel and bite did not really change much, and I was able to fade the fronts after just a couple of laps. Not confidence inspiring. I had to go back to oem pads to get some safety margin back.

For those that have done the R12-R16 switch did it solve some of those issues?
 
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Do R16 or R18 have similar initial bite to the R12? I've been using R12 for a while now and am thinking of moving up but don't want to lose that intial bite. Thanks.
 
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I ran the R12s on my GT for a few years. Wanted more bite so I picked up XP20 (R16 equivalent) for free. MUCH better than the R12s. Granted, I did add the brake deflectors so that helped. Now I use Pagid RST3 and have fallen in love with them but have the XP20s as back up
 
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MD
Do R16 or R18 have similar initial bite to the R12? I've been using R12 for a while now and am thinking of moving up but don't want to lose that intial bite. Thanks.
Yes but from what I read and other drivers, R18s require more heat as they are more of an endurance pad
 

Bill Pemberton

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Correct, Biggsy, they are an Endurance Pad, but for those of us who brake late or generate a lot of heat they work well. The 12s are ok for many , but if the track is fast or the driver uses his brakes a lot or late, the 18s are a good alternative.

Make sure they are pre-bedded.
 
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Mad Hatter

Gotta go Faster
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Do R16 or R18 have similar initial bite to the R12? I've been using R12 for a while now and am thinking of moving up but don't want to lose that intial bite. Thanks.
The increase in bite is quite marked for the R18 over the R16 with the R12 being quite far back, would say the R12's are not up to hard tracking in our heavy cars.. I find the RST3 very similar to the R18, but longer lasting. Love Pagid pads but the cost is quite prohibitive, they would still be my first choice if costs were not important. I still user pagid RSL 29 pads in the rear as they last all season with very little wear.
 

Bill Pemberton

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Lots of good stuff out there and I would probably use an R10 or R12 for the rear pads. I have been really impressed with the SR11 EBC pads and have yet to wear them out. Not sure they are even available yet, so will try the RP-X or RP-1s next time around, likely with Blues in the rear.

The SR11s are some of the best pads I have ever used, but they take a bit to get used to as they absolutely have so much initial bite it throws off your learned braking feel. Once I got used to them I absolutely loved them. No fade, no pedal change and since I never took them off the car , no squeal either. Still some pad left after events of last year and a few in 2021.

Good luck and another idea I recommend is to drag your brakes around the track during the first lap ( yellow flag, or pace lap ) as it heats up the pads and rotors a bit ,which also puts some heat in the tires --- just a thought!
 
I ran Gloc R12s f/r on my gt350 for 2 seasons and was very happy with the crisp initial bite, power and had zero fade. Used that setup at NCM for TT nats last year to a 2nd place finish.

I tried the same on my GT500, which while faster and heavier, has much bigger brakes up front. The OEM pads have good power, bit initial bite and pedal feel was a bit soft, and I could fade them after a few hot laps, especially when they got worn down a bit.
Switch to the R12s and some AP R4 fluid - pedal feel and bite did not really change much, and I was able to fade the fronts after just a couple of laps. Not confidence inspiring. I had to go back to oem pads to get some safety margin back.

For those that have done the R12-R16 switch did it solve some of those issues?
Sounds like a bedding issue. R12's would work much better on your 500 than your 350. If you had great success with them on the 350, look at bedding over the pad.
 

Bill Pemberton

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I have used everything from Hoosier R7s, to BFG gforce R1Ss ( no longer available ) to even Toyo RRs, with only very minor discernible difference. I can't imagine it makes enough difference 95% would ever notice.
 
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I have used everything from Hoosier R7s, to BFG gforce R1Ss ( no longer available ) to even Toyo RRs, with only very minor discernible difference. I can't imagine it makes enough difference 95% would ever notice.
Nankang AR-1 made enough difference in braking to overheat the R10's that I was running constantly. It's doing the same with my R12's to a lesser extend (might be other braking issues though). And was good enough for 1.6G of braking performance much more than the 275 Zestino's that I was running it also added 0.4G in cornering. This is a big difference in both lap times and braking/cornering. So yeah you will definitely notice a difference between something like R7 and Toyo RRs.
 

Bill Pemberton

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Thanks for the input bnight, and though I have not really seen much difference running R18s with a variety of tires, one item I have had on all my cars is very effective ducting. Thanks for noting issues with stickier rubber with R10s or 12s , as I can see that. I usually only recommend R12s for drivers who are new to tracking, or those who want great linear feel and realize the pads will wear quicker.
 
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75024
Sounds like a bedding issue. R12's would work much better on your 500 than your 350. If you had great success with them on the 350, look at bedding over the pad.
Hi Tim, they were pre-bedded, on freshly turned rotors. First event after that seemed good, but that track (MSR cresson) was not that stressful on them (120-70). Back at Eagles Canyon, multiple corners a lap were from 120-140 braking down to 50.
You could feel them start to lose torque at the end of the braking zones.

Good point on the tire selection. The issues did coincide with going from 305 mich. SC2 fronts to 325 nankang crs that are wider and taller. That sounds like one other factor pushing it over the top.
 
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