Hawk DTC-70/DTC-60 vs OEM GT350 pads

[Bill Pemberton]

Well, Vorshlag told me the same and we only got the 2.8 max, so your situation is in line with mine. They told me I could cut out the strut hole for more movement but I was not interested in taking it from stock. Envious you have an old Hunter unit , that is so cool!

 

[Mad Hatter]

-2.8 Is a great set up for a car that does street work as well. Back when I was tracking the Boss on street tires it worked really well. Saved the tires from excessive track wear while not wearing too much on the street. Tires would cycle out before wore out.

 

[OX1]

Well, Vorshlag told me the same and we only got the 2.8 max, so your situation is in line with mine. They told me I could cut out the strut hole for more movement but I was not interested in taking it from stock. Envious you have an old Hunter unit , that is so cool!

It almost seemed like the hex that sticks above the strut tower was a bit lower after the Vorhslag install.
I've thought about cutting that hex half off, and it might just squeak under.



I mean, who really uses that hex changing struts. If you can't get nut off with an air gun, holding that tiny hex
is probably going to strip it or break anyway. So I'm thinking cut it off. I'm not a big fan of camber bolts.
Down side is, there goes my "warrantee" on struts, which are actually covered by "PremiumCare".

Many people have a 4 post already. This is the same system I have, got about 7 years ago.

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Just had my "Hunter Guy" calibrate and put in one new camber sensor in a head, so still supportable.
I paid about double that. Add in alignment plates front and rear and brackets that hold on to tire
(instead of grabbing back/edge of rim, and possibly leaving a mark),



and could probably do it for 3 grand or less these days.
Not a huge amount of money, compared to what we spend on this hobby overall, IMO.
(and as I said, I have a ton of vehicles).