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S550 Honey Badger GT350 Build Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

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34
22
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
Under 3 Years
Wyoming
A much anticipated package came in this weekend. Been on the hunt for an AIM PDM/dash/logger system for some time. Now just to decide whether to also run a setup in the kit car
View attachment 83446
Another interesting step in development. I'm trying to sort out the install in my wiring challenged head. It looks like this will not just be added into the already complex wiring but replacing some component(s). Does it eliminate the fuse box? Is the OEM fuse box the equivalent of a Power Distribution Module (PDM)? The wiring diagram on AIM's website doesn't seem to include all the components in the S550 electronics. I remember reading somewhere in TMO that the number of CAN buses went from 3 to 5 in the change from S197 to S550. In addition to your ambitious and talented mechanic ability, are you an electronic talent too?
 
734
1,059
TX
Another interesting step in development. I'm trying to sort out the install in my wiring challenged head. It looks like this will not just be added into the already complex wiring but replacing some component(s). Does it eliminate the fuse box? Is the OEM fuse box the equivalent of a Power Distribution Module (PDM)? The wiring diagram on AIM's website doesn't seem to include all the components in the S550 electronics. I remember reading somewhere in TMO that the number of CAN buses went from 3 to 5 in the change from S197 to S550. In addition to your ambitious and talented mechanic ability, are you an electronic talent too?
Correct - the PDM replaces the OEM fuses, relays, etc. Here's a pretty good overview


In regards to the mustang - it's going to replace everything (all OEM wiring, fuse boxes, computers/modules, etc.). I'll need to go with a standalone EPAS system (either FP350S or Cortex module to trick OEM), standalone ABS (Bosch M5 ABS), and either a Ford control pack or compatible aftermarket ECU (like Link). My goal was to remove all non-necessary areas for simplicity, weight, and adjustability.

As far as install - I've done enough electronics to be dangerous. But it will be a big uphill battle to get it done right. We'll see if I can do it myself or give up and enlist GSpeed to help me finish it
 
31
52
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
SF Bay Area
Correct - the PDM replaces the OEM fuses, relays, etc. Here's a pretty good overview


In regards to the mustang - it's going to replace everything (all OEM wiring, fuse boxes, computers/modules, etc.). I'll need to go with a standalone EPAS system (either FP350S or Cortex module to trick OEM), standalone ABS (Bosch M5 ABS), and either a Ford control pack or compatible aftermarket ECU (like Link). My goal was to remove all non-necessary areas for simplicity, weight, and adjustability.

As far as install - I've done enough electronics to be dangerous. But it will be a big uphill battle to get it done right. We'll see if I can do it myself or give up and enlist GSpeed to help me finish it
I recall someone (Tob?) talking on maybe Mustang6g about how good the Ford ABS system is. Any concerns moving off of the Ford ABS setup?
 
734
1,059
TX
I recall someone (Tob?) talking on maybe Mustang6g about how good the Ford ABS system is. Any concerns moving off of the Ford ABS setup?
Only in the fact that there will be some teething issues. But the Bosch ABS Module is what every high-end factory race car on the planet uses - def not concerned about its capability/safety. Only my ability to get it working/tuned right. But I'll probably work with a pro once I get the car to that point.
 

ArizonaBOSS

Because racecar.
Moderator
8,729
2,733
Arizona, USA
The Ford ABS system (especially with the FRPP/FPP controller module) is one of the best OEM systems you can get that will work well on the track (and does it inexpensively, too!), but the BOSCH M4/M5 systems are the professional motorsports benchmark and offer adjustability that you just can't get otherwise.

The only other thing I would suggest (strictly from a cost perspective) is a BMW Mk60 ABS swap; but you don't get the adjustability and I can't say that it would be significantly (if any) better than the Ford system w/ the track module.
 
734
1,059
TX
The Ford ABS system (especially with the FRPP/FPP controller module) is one of the best OEM systems you can get that will work well on the track (and does it inexpensively, too!), but the BOSCH M4/M5 systems are the professional motorsports benchmark and offer adjustability that you just can't get otherwise.

The only other thing I would suggest (strictly from a cost perspective) is a BMW Mk60 ABS swap; but you don't get the adjustability and I can't say that it would be significantly (if any) better than the Ford system w/ the track module.
Absolutely. The FP350S unit is especially capable - really, really great at maximizing grip with slicks. But in the end, as you mentioned, it doesn't offer adjustability and can only do what an OEM-built module is capable of doing. It's a great backup solution for me if I can't/decide against the Bosch since it can also work standalone.

To expand on the Bosch unit, couple more reasons I am interested:

  1. Removes the brake booster, allowing me to move to a Tilton pedal box (which enables brake bias adjustment F/R, separate reservoirs for both brakes and clutch, and more)
  2. Offers 10 levels of ABS adjustment - allowing you to really dial in for grip level of the track in real (simple dial adjustment)
  3. Unparalleled performance - I expect the Bosch unit to net 1.5-2 seconds at COTA alone
  4. Additional programming adjustability to dial in braking performance even more
Only downside I've heard from other racers is cost - which is fairly substantial at 9-10k installed
 
734
1,059
TX
Productive day in the garage for me and pops. This trackspec cage fit like a glove. Really happy with it. all tacked in ready for welding.

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just gotta work out a dash bar since I’m fairly certain I won’t be reusing oem dash - although I’m not 100% decided yet either way.

Before we go further, I’m going to fab up the fuel cell box, dry sump oil tank box, seat mounts, and air jacks. Want to get that all in there before I commit to locking it in
 
734
1,059
TX
Saw this last night?

Are you painting the inside of the car?

You said the cage was going in next so made me wonder.

yep. Whole car will get painted inside and out. Then wrapped in Ruby
 
734
1,059
TX
Air jacks came in. This kit is by Yellow Speed Racing - made out of Taiwan. I looked at the usual players - AP Racing and Krontec - but they were $1-1.5k more for only about 4lbs of weight savings. While I would definitely run of the race proven brands if I was relying on these for winning races, I felt like taking a chance here. My use case will be much less demanding and more forgivable if we have issues. Total cost for all parts seen was just under $1.6k.

IMG_0857.jpeg

I got the front tacked tonight. Using same location as on the GT4 mustangs. Easy peasy.

IMG_0860.jpeg

Rears will be a bit more work. Waiting on finding some 3/16in plate to use for floor reinforcement. Will post pics once I can find something.
 

Bill Pemberton

0ld Ford Automotive Racing Terror
8,381
8,264
Exp. Type
Time Attack
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Blair, Nebraska
Well regardless of the make, this should raise the intimidation factor for you when at the track!!! Look forward to the post when you get her off the ground ( yes, that would be a double meaning , ha ).
 
734
1,059
TX
Well regardless of the make, this should raise the intimidation factor for you when at the track!!! Look forward to the post when you get her off the ground ( yes, that would be a double meaning , ha ).
Not going to lie, the swag from having air jacks will be pretty fun. A definite bonus!

I am just really looking forward to not needing to whip out the floor jack and jack stands to change tires and brake pads. This is going to be make it so much easier!
 
734
1,059
TX
Made a little more progress today. Got the passenger front on. With both fronts tested for fit, I went ahead and fully welded it on. Might have gone a bit overboard with the welds, but at least I know it’s not going to move. Ha

32055A53-B132-4F9F-8126-29539C2939CF.jpegD63CB966-65E9-4CE0-8496-2423F2830DC9.jpeg

for the rears, I am using this plug behind the seats and before the rear seat shelf. I thought about tucking into the corner a bit more, but the floor underneath has some brackets I didn’t want to mess with.

To enlarge this hole, I made a template out of wood and hot glued it to the floor. Then used a hole saw to cut the 2.75in hole for the mounting tube.

0BBE8D80-7FB0-40F6-B44B-E0BBCDB2F589.jpeg83277D7A-40F8-48CA-9C2D-92985812066D.jpeg

easy peasy. Underneath of floor will have a 3/16in thick steel plate welded to the floor. Then tube welded to that. Still waiting on the plate.

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in the meantime, I fab’d up this bracket for the top. Reinforced with two gussets - one on each side.


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