S550 Honey Badger GT350 Build Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

[Fabman]

Ahh great. Another application to practice my tig welding. I got started with tig this weekend - oh boy. Had no idea how much different controlling the puddle is. So much easier to control the heat, but harder to control the puddle. ha

You can do it!

 

[captdistraction]

I just picked up a mig (and DC only lift tig) this week - I'm nowhere near that in terms of weld quality lol. The first one was stacking pesos

Good info so far. Curious to see more of the dry sump setup - I still haven't narrowed down a tank for mine. The "fatty" 3 gal Peterson tank is looking like it might fit in the battery location

 

[honeybadger]

Okay - made some more progress on the fuel cell on Friday night. I ended up re-doing the cage and outer shell to move it 2 inches up into the cabin. In the original position, I calculated about 6.75in of clearance to the ground. With @AJ Hartman 's rear diffuser needing 3.5in of clearance to ground, I only had 3.25in of space to work with. We predicted we need about 5in of space at the back of the cell, so moved it up 2in to get 1/4in clearance. It'll be tight, but workable.

To do that, I made the top flange that the cell mounts to out of 1x3. Not excited about the extra weight, but it's solid and offers plenty of strength.



I then followed @Fabman 's method of mounting nuts into the 1x3. I didn't take pics of them bare, but can when I remove again for painting. Upgraded the bolts to m8s.


Then welded tabs onto the four corners the mounting flange where the frame railes are underneath. Will weld in a backing plate underneath for these to screw into. M10s will be used for these


Look underneath with added clearance.


using my uber precise sheet metal + tape rolls to similar ground height, measuring the clearance.

 

[Fabman]

Okay - made some more progress on the fuel cell on Friday night. I ended up re-doing the cage and outer shell to move it 2 inches up into the cabin. In the original position, I calculated about 6.75in of clearance to the ground. With @AJ Hartman 's rear diffuser needing 3.5in of clearance to ground, I only had 3.25in of space to work with. We predicted we need about 5in of space at the back of the cell, so moved it up 2in to get 1/4in clearance. It'll be tight, but workable.

To do that, I made the top flange that the cell mounts to out of 1x3. Not excited about the extra weight, but it's solid and offers plenty of strength.

View attachment 85490

I then followed @Fabman 's method of mounting nuts into the 1x3. I didn't take pics of them bare, but can when I remove again for painting. Upgraded the bolts to m8s.
View attachment 85492

Then welded tabs onto the four corners the mounting flange where the frame railes are underneath. Will weld in a backing plate underneath for these to screw into. M10s will be used for these
View attachment 85491

Look underneath with added clearance.
View attachment 85494

using my uber precise sheet metal + tape rolls to similar ground height, measuring the clearance.
View attachment 85493

M10 is pretty small for that location. I’d consider 3/8’ a minimum. In a bad crash that cell full of fuel will likely not be restrained by those tiny bolts and you don’t want a bomb floating around the car with you. especially if you come to a rest upside down.

 

[honeybadger]

M10 is pretty small for that location. I’d consider 3/8’ a minimum. In a bad crash that cell full of fuel will likely not be restrained by those tiny bolts and you don’t want a bomb floating around the car with you. especially if you come to a rest upside down.

So I’m not super familiar with SAE Bolts, but you’re referring to a bolt with a 0.375 diameter threaded part, correct? The m10s I was looking at are 0.39 when converting to inches. I could probably go m12 fairly easy, though. Thoughts?

 

[Fabman]

So I’m not super familiar with SAE Bolts, but you’re referring to a bolt with a 0.375 diameter threaded part, correct? The m10s I was looking at are 0.39 when converting to inches. I could probably go m12 fairly easy, though. Thoughts?

Let me look at the chart in the morning.

EDIT; I just asked Siri. You are correct, m10 is .390 so you’re good to go.
I remove all my metric crap and replace it with American hardware, so I’m most familiar with that.

 

[honeybadger]

Let me look at the chart in the morning.

EDIT; I just asked Siri. You are correct, m10 is .390 so you’re good to go.
I remove all my metric crap and replace it with American hardware, so I’m most familiar with that.

I do the same, but for metric. Everything I grew up working on is metric. My dad on the other hand, mostly worked on SAE. Between the two of us, we get it done. I'll get some experience with the SAE stuff when we start working on restoring his 70' road runner. hehe.

Thanks for checking, Sal!

 

[JAJ]

I do the same, but for metric. Everything I grew up working on is metric. My dad on the other hand, mostly worked on SAE. Between the two of us, we get it done. I'll get some experience with the SAE stuff when we start working on restoring his 70' road runner. hehe.

Thanks for checking, Sal!

On the subject of screws that are strong enough, metric grade 12.9 steel bolts have tensile strength of 170,000 PSI. Unless you can find exotic stainless steel like the material that Caliperfexion uses for their stainless caliper studs, most commercial stainless bolts are less than half as strong at 70,000 PSI. In addition to that, the finer the thread, the stronger the bolt. That's because coarser threads are cut deeper into the metal, and the deeper the threads are cut, the smaller the remaining core of the bolt.

 

[honeybadger]

On the subject of screws that are strong enough, metric grade 12.9 steel bolts have tensile strength of 170,000 PSI. Unless you can find exotic stainless steel like the material that Caliperfexion uses for their stainless caliper studs, most commercial stainless bolts are less than half as strong at 70,000 PSI. In addition to that, the finer the thread, the stronger the bolt. That's because coarser threads are cut deeper into the metal, and the deeper the threads are cut, the smaller the remaining core of the bolt.

This is what I've been looking at. Most options appear to be course threads. I'll keep poking around

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

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[JAJ]

This is what I've been looking at. Most options appear to be course threads. I'll keep poking around

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

The M10x1.0 has a tensile area down the center of the bolt that's 64 mm^2, while the M10x1.5 is 57 mm^2. That's about a 12% difference. Not the end of the world. To put it in perspective, 170,000 PSI over the M10x1.5's 57 square mm is 15,000 pounds of tension to snap the bolt. Personally, I'd bump up to M12x1.5 with 88 mm^2 area (with 23,000 pounds tensile strength) and sleep better at night.

 

[Fabman]

The M10x1.0 has a tensile area down the center of the bolt that's 64 mm^2, while the M10x1.5 is 57 mm^2. That's about a 12% difference. Not the end of the world. To put it in perspective, 170,000 PSI over the M10x1.5's 57 square mm is 15,000 pounds of tension to snap the bolt. Personally, I'd bump up to M12x1.5 with 88 mm^2 area (with 23,000 pounds tensile strength) and sleep better at night.

I approve this message.

 

[honeybadger]

The M10x1.0 has a tensile area down the center of the bolt that's 64 mm^2, while the M10x1.5 is 57 mm^2. That's about a 12% difference. Not the end of the world. To put it in perspective, 170,000 PSI over the M10x1.5's 57 square mm is 15,000 pounds of tension to snap the bolt. Personally, I'd bump up to M12x1.5 with 88 mm^2 area (with 23,000 pounds tensile strength) and sleep better at night.

Thanks for the info, @JAJ. I've ordered some m12x1.5 hardware from belmetrics.com that should be here Thursday. Thanks again for the recommendation!

 

[Tob]

Unless you can find exotic stainless steel like the material that Caliperfexion uses for their stainless caliper studs, most commercial stainless bolts are less than half as strong at 70,000 PSI. In addition to that, the finer the thread, the stronger the bolt.

On top of that, rolled threads are stronger than cut threads.

 

[Fabman]

The weakest part at this point is the method of attachment....the tabs on the cell mount and attachment to the car.
The bolts are plenty strong.

 

[honeybadger]

I finally was able to finish editing the air jacks/seat mount video. Surprising how much more editing there is when you spread the work out over 2 weeks working evenings and weekends.

 

[Fabman]

I finally was able to finish editing the air jacks/seat mount video. Surprising how much more editing there is when you spread the work out over 2 weeks working evenings and weekends.

Great video, I love that you are doing everything yourself. Kudos.

 

[honeybadger]

Great video, I love that you are doing everything yourself. Kudos.

Thanks, Sal. Much appreciated!

Been going well so far. We'll see how it is when I get to the wiring part. Probably going to sign up for HP Academy and let them educate me ha

 

[Fabman]

Thanks, Sal. Much appreciated!

Been going well so far. We'll see how it is when I get to the wiring part. Probably going to sign up for HP Academy and let them educate me ha

I just love this sh!t. I'm subscribed.

 

[honeybadger]

Okay ya’ll

getting ready to mount the dry sump oil tank and looking at two options. Curious to see what y’all think.

First is option 1 - behind the passenger seat.

Pros are weight distribution, easier access to fill/check level, less chassis cutting and welding

cons are having to run two -16 and one -12 hose under the car. And the runs are longer



option 2 is beneath the dash.

pros are shorter run for the hoses, all lines protected from debris/crash, and lower center of gravity

cons are less optimal weight distribution, terrible access for checking levels/fill, and requires more mods to the chassis (cutting holes)



both will be in a metal box to prevent oil spray/fire, so access is pretty crap either way.

another thing about the first option that sucks is routing the hoses from down out of the cabin and horizontal along the body. Worried about rubbing on the chassis could run through cabin, but prevent fire would be harder.

ideas?

 

[gtorpedo]

Okay ya’ll

getting ready to mount the dry sump oil tank and looking at two options. Curious to see what y’all think.

First is option 1 - behind the passenger seat.

Pros are weight distribution, easier access to fill/check level, less chassis cutting and welding

cons are having to run two -16 and one -12 hose under the car. And the runs are longer
View attachment 85667


option 2 is beneath the dash.

pros are shorter run for the hoses, all lines protected from debris/crash, and lower center of gravity

cons are less optimal weight distribution, terrible access for checking levels/fill, and requires more mods to the chassis (cutting holes)
View attachment 85668


both will be in a metal box to prevent oil spray/fire, so access is pretty crap either way.

another thing about the first option that sucks is routing the hoses from down out of the cabin and horizontal along the body. Worried about rubbing on the chassis could run through cabin, but prevent fire would be harder.

ideas?

If Option #2, would a passenger still be an option at least safely/comfortably? I wouldn't want a tank of 200*+ oil between my legs!!