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S550 Honey Badger GT350 Build Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs

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734
1,059
TX
If Option #2, would a passenger still be an option at least safely/comfortably? I wouldn't want a tank of 200*+ oil between my legs!!
like the GT4 car, it would be tucked up front and away from your legs. Mine would stick forward a little more than that, but same idea

1681842146002.png
 
734
1,059
TX
Okay - chose a location for the dry sump oil tank and went bananas with the cut off wheel tonight. Happy with how it's looking. By opening up the floor into the crumple zone and cutting out the "box" that the HVAC air intake used, I was able to get the can pretty far forward.

IMG_1031.jpeg

Good news is I should be able to access the fill from the engine bay

IMG_1032.jpeg

Currently waiting on some fittings to plan out my hose routing before I finalize the mounting. It's a tight fit juggling 4 different ports.

In the meantime, I mocked up the dash, steering column, and pedals. Dash and wheel conflict, so i've ordered a mount to put the dash on the steering column instead of where the OEM cluster was. This should move it forward and make it easier to see. This perspective is a bit misleading, the top of the wheel covers the shift lights most of the time in this position.

IMG_1025.jpeg

Finally, I've mocked up the pedals. Think I've lucked out on not needing to cut the foot well - which is good. the main chassis rails run directly under the brake pedal.

IMG_1028.jpeg
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Okay - chose a location for the dry sump oil tank and went bananas with the cut off wheel tonight. Happy with how it's looking. By opening up the floor into the crumple zone and cutting out the "box" that the HVAC air intake used, I was able to get the can pretty far forward.

View attachment 85949

Good news is I should be able to access the fill from the engine bay

View attachment 85948

Currently waiting on some fittings to plan out my hose routing before I finalize the mounting. It's a tight fit juggling 4 different ports.

In the meantime, I mocked up the dash, steering column, and pedals. Dash and wheel conflict, so i've ordered a mount to put the dash on the steering column instead of where the OEM cluster was. This should move it forward and make it easier to see. This perspective is a bit misleading, the top of the wheel covers the shift lights most of the time in this position.

View attachment 85951

Finally, I've mocked up the pedals. Think I've lucked out on not needing to cut the foot well - which is good. the main chassis rails run directly under the brake pedal.

View attachment 85950
This is my plan as well, I'll be watching.
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
My fittings come in on Friday. that's when the rubber will really meet the road on this position ha
The trick is how well can you heal/toe when the brake and gas are swinging opposite ways….I was going to use a 3 pedal unit and connect the stock gas pedal with rod ends….but if this works I may just go for that instead.
My turn to learn from you. ;)
 
734
1,059
TX
The trick is how well can you heal/toe when the brake and gas are swinging opposite ways….I was going to use a 3 pedal unit and connect the stock gas pedal with rod ends….but if this works I may just go for that instead.
My turn to learn from you. ;)
Ahhh, my mistake. I misread and thought you were talking about the dry sump tank.

the ECU and strain gauge knob will take car or rev matching for me. So not worried about the pedals. I explored a 3 pedal, but was concerned about getting the drive by wire figured out
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Ahhh, my mistake. I misread and thought you were talking about the dry sump tank.

the ECU and strain gauge knob will take car or rev matching for me. So not worried about the pedals. I explored a 3 pedal, but was concerned about getting the drive by wire figured out
Yeah, that’s why I was looking at connecting with rod ends….are you retaining the ABS?
 
734
1,059
TX
Okay - made some progress last week on the dry sump enclosure. I need to clean things and take some more pics, but going to wait to do that until I lay some steel it down to and seam seal the enclosure as taking the mounts in and out are pretty tedious. But essentially I built a box with a removal door inside the cabin that will go under the dash. A little heavy since I used 16g steel, but I wanted it to withstand passengers kicking/bracing themselves on it. So I welded to the chassis. Should also add some structural rigidity back into that corner.

IMG_1056(1).jpg


On the engine-bay side, I enclosed the hole a bit to add some more rigidity back and protect the canister a little better.

IMG_1057(1).jpg

Getting really close to being done with the fab work. Basically just have some final clean up to do on the fuel cell and dry sump tank enclosure. Then I'm ready to weld the cage and paint.

Last week I also completed the final "big ticket" purchases- Speedkore carbon fiber roof, Link ECU and wiring kit, L&M cams, AP Racing brake kit, and a couple other bits. I think I only have the rear diffuser left.

And one of the pieces I'm most excited for came in. Bosch M5 Motorsport ABS Clubsport Kit. This is going to be a real game changer and should really help shrink those brake zones. There's a good 1.5-2 seconds split between Turn 1, 11, 12 and 15 braking zones at COTA from my analysis. Stock unit is great, but not optimized for racing slicks, big aero, and full race pads. FP350S replacement is a really strong option from what I've been told by those much smarter/better than me and what I'd recommend for 95% of those going down the rabbit hole. But all agreed if I could....and against my more rational judgement...I did :D
IMG_1049(1).JPG
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
734
1,059
TX
Money bags here....lol.
Ha. Turns out you can save a good amount not running a mustang at a track for 18 months. that and the new job signing bonus. The amount of money I've spent on this build in the last couple months is very sobering. Thankful I can make it happen, but definitely not without sacrifice
 

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Ha. Turns out you can save a good amount not running a mustang at a track for 18 months. that and the new job signing bonus. The amount of money I've spent on this build in the last couple months is very sobering. Thankful I can make it happen, but definitely not without sacrifice

Save money?
What's THAT?

Don't mind me, I'm just Jelly. ;)

brakes.PNG
 
734
1,059
TX

Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,480
8,065
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
1,235
1,227
In the V6L
Ha. Turns out you can save a good amount not running a mustang at a track for 18 months. that and the new job signing bonus. The amount of money I've spent on this build in the last couple months is very sobering. Thankful I can make it happen, but definitely not without sacrifice
Actually, you're moving along pretty quickly - Project Binky took something like six years ;)
 
734
1,059
TX
Actually, you're moving along pretty quickly - Project Binky took something like six years ;)
I applaud your diligence!

My goal is to have the car running by end of year. We’ll see. Really have some events next spring I want to make. The big question mark is wiring. Then programming everything to talk to each other. Ha.
 
734
1,059
TX
The full AP kit came in while I was on a work trip last week. So pumped about this kit. Total weight savings is about 45lbs of unsprung mass
IMG_1092.jpeg


Stock calipers/pads (add 30lbs for stock rotors) - 44.7lbs
IMG_1085.jpeg


AP kit is 32.2lbs - so 12.5lbs per front corner
IMG_1083.jpeg

Rear stock setup is 27 lbs (when you add 20lbs for stock rotor). I estimate about 3lbs for parking brake stuff based on previous weigh-ins
IMG_1084.jpeg


AP kit is 20.4. So 6.6lbs + 3ish lbs makes it a 10ish lbs difference in rear
IMG_1091.jpeg


And these weights are for the monster 25mm endurance pad/caliper setup. Super pumped
IMG_1077.jpeg

I purchased through Anthony at Drive Faster Now. He'll get you the best price, help make sure the setup is optimized for your car (we ordered some different parts since I am using the Bosch abs) and treat you great. Highly recommend
 

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