- Thread starter
- #161
like the GT4 car, it would be tucked up front and away from your legs. Mine would stick forward a little more than that, but same idea
The Mustang Forum for Track & Racing Enthusiasts
Taking your Mustang to an open track/HPDE event for the first time? Do you race competitively? This forum is for you! Log in to remove most ads.
- Welcome to the Ford Mustang forum built for owners of the Mustang GT350, BOSS 302, GT500, and all other S550, S197, SN95, Fox Body and older Mustangs set up for open track days, road racing, and/or autocross. Join our forum, interact with others, share your build, and help us strengthen this community!
S550 Honey Badger GT350 Build Build Thread Profile - S550 Mustangs
- Thread starterhoneybadger
- Start date
Modified GT350 called the Honey Badger
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
- Thread starter
- #162
Okay - chose a location for the dry sump oil tank and went bananas with the cut off wheel tonight. Happy with how it's looking. By opening up the floor into the crumple zone and cutting out the "box" that the HVAC air intake used, I was able to get the can pretty far forward.
Good news is I should be able to access the fill from the engine bay
Currently waiting on some fittings to plan out my hose routing before I finalize the mounting. It's a tight fit juggling 4 different ports.
In the meantime, I mocked up the dash, steering column, and pedals. Dash and wheel conflict, so i've ordered a mount to put the dash on the steering column instead of where the OEM cluster was. This should move it forward and make it easier to see. This perspective is a bit misleading, the top of the wheel covers the shift lights most of the time in this position.
Finally, I've mocked up the pedals. Think I've lucked out on not needing to cut the foot well - which is good. the main chassis rails run directly under the brake pedal.
Good news is I should be able to access the fill from the engine bay
Currently waiting on some fittings to plan out my hose routing before I finalize the mounting. It's a tight fit juggling 4 different ports.
In the meantime, I mocked up the dash, steering column, and pedals. Dash and wheel conflict, so i've ordered a mount to put the dash on the steering column instead of where the OEM cluster was. This should move it forward and make it easier to see. This perspective is a bit misleading, the top of the wheel covers the shift lights most of the time in this position.
Finally, I've mocked up the pedals. Think I've lucked out on not needing to cut the foot well - which is good. the main chassis rails run directly under the brake pedal.
captdistraction
GrumpyRacer
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Fabman
Dances with Racecars
This is my plan as well, I'll be watching.
- Thread starter
- #165
My fittings come in on Friday. that's when the rubber will really meet the road on this position ha
Fabman
Dances with Racecars
The trick is how well can you heal/toe when the brake and gas are swinging opposite ways….I was going to use a 3 pedal unit and connect the stock gas pedal with rod ends….but if this works I may just go for that instead.
My turn to learn from you.
- Thread starter
- #167
Ahhh, my mistake. I misread and thought you were talking about the dry sump tank.The trick is how well can you heal/toe when the brake and gas are swinging opposite ways….I was going to use a 3 pedal unit and connect the stock gas pedal with rod ends….but if this works I may just go for that instead.
My turn to learn from you.
the ECU and strain gauge knob will take car or rev matching for me. So not worried about the pedals. I explored a 3 pedal, but was concerned about getting the drive by wire figured out
Fabman
Dances with Racecars
Yeah, that’s why I was looking at connecting with rod ends….are you retaining the ABS?
- Thread starter
- #169
I am not. Bosch standalone
- Thread starter
- #170
Okay - made some progress last week on the dry sump enclosure. I need to clean things and take some more pics, but going to wait to do that until I lay some steel it down to and seam seal the enclosure as taking the mounts in and out are pretty tedious. But essentially I built a box with a removal door inside the cabin that will go under the dash. A little heavy since I used 16g steel, but I wanted it to withstand passengers kicking/bracing themselves on it. So I welded to the chassis. Should also add some structural rigidity back into that corner.
On the engine-bay side, I enclosed the hole a bit to add some more rigidity back and protect the canister a little better.
Getting really close to being done with the fab work. Basically just have some final clean up to do on the fuel cell and dry sump tank enclosure. Then I'm ready to weld the cage and paint.
Last week I also completed the final "big ticket" purchases- Speedkore carbon fiber roof, Link ECU and wiring kit, L&M cams, AP Racing brake kit, and a couple other bits. I think I only have the rear diffuser left.
And one of the pieces I'm most excited for came in. Bosch M5 Motorsport ABS Clubsport Kit. This is going to be a real game changer and should really help shrink those brake zones. There's a good 1.5-2 seconds split between Turn 1, 11, 12 and 15 braking zones at COTA from my analysis. Stock unit is great, but not optimized for racing slicks, big aero, and full race pads. FP350S replacement is a really strong option from what I've been told by those much smarter/better than me and what I'd recommend for 95% of those going down the rabbit hole. But all agreed if I could....and against my more rational judgement...I did
On the engine-bay side, I enclosed the hole a bit to add some more rigidity back and protect the canister a little better.
Getting really close to being done with the fab work. Basically just have some final clean up to do on the fuel cell and dry sump tank enclosure. Then I'm ready to weld the cage and paint.
Last week I also completed the final "big ticket" purchases- Speedkore carbon fiber roof, Link ECU and wiring kit, L&M cams, AP Racing brake kit, and a couple other bits. I think I only have the rear diffuser left.
And one of the pieces I'm most excited for came in. Bosch M5 Motorsport ABS Clubsport Kit. This is going to be a real game changer and should really help shrink those brake zones. There's a good 1.5-2 seconds split between Turn 1, 11, 12 and 15 braking zones at COTA from my analysis. Stock unit is great, but not optimized for racing slicks, big aero, and full race pads. FP350S replacement is a really strong option from what I've been told by those much smarter/better than me and what I'd recommend for 95% of those going down the rabbit hole. But all agreed if I could....and against my more rational judgement...I did
Fabman
Dances with Racecars
Money bags here....lol.
- Thread starter
- #172
Ha. Turns out you can save a good amount not running a mustang at a track for 18 months. that and the new job signing bonus. The amount of money I've spent on this build in the last couple months is very sobering. Thankful I can make it happen, but definitely not without sacrifice
Fabman
Dances with Racecars
- Thread starter
- #174
Looks familiar! This was the result of a big smoke show going into t1 at Cota a couple years back
hopefully this will fix that, ha
Fabman
Dances with Racecars
Owww....I've been fortunate enough not to go quite that deep.....yet.
Actually, you're moving along pretty quickly - Project Binky took something like six years
- Thread starter
- #177
I applaud your diligence!Actually, you're moving along pretty quickly - Project Binky took something like six years
My goal is to have the car running by end of year. We’ll see. Really have some events next spring I want to make. The big question mark is wiring. Then programming everything to talk to each other. Ha.
- Thread starter
- #178
The full AP kit came in while I was on a work trip last week. So pumped about this kit. Total weight savings is about 45lbs of unsprung mass
Stock calipers/pads (add 30lbs for stock rotors) - 44.7lbs
AP kit is 32.2lbs - so 12.5lbs per front corner
Rear stock setup is 27 lbs (when you add 20lbs for stock rotor). I estimate about 3lbs for parking brake stuff based on previous weigh-ins
AP kit is 20.4. So 6.6lbs + 3ish lbs makes it a 10ish lbs difference in rear
And these weights are for the monster 25mm endurance pad/caliper setup. Super pumped
I purchased through Anthony at Drive Faster Now. He'll get you the best price, help make sure the setup is optimized for your car (we ordered some different parts since I am using the Bosch abs) and treat you great. Highly recommend
Stock calipers/pads (add 30lbs for stock rotors) - 44.7lbs
AP kit is 32.2lbs - so 12.5lbs per front corner
Rear stock setup is 27 lbs (when you add 20lbs for stock rotor). I estimate about 3lbs for parking brake stuff based on previous weigh-ins
AP kit is 20.4. So 6.6lbs + 3ish lbs makes it a 10ish lbs difference in rear
And these weights are for the monster 25mm endurance pad/caliper setup. Super pumped
I purchased through Anthony at Drive Faster Now. He'll get you the best price, help make sure the setup is optimized for your car (we ordered some different parts since I am using the Bosch abs) and treat you great. Highly recommend
captdistraction
GrumpyRacer
I run those brakes. Now only 2 full sessions on them in 7 months, but they work well.
- Thread starter
- #180
Nice! How’d you think they felt compared to the Ford 6 pot?
TMO Supporting Vendors
