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Grant 302 said:I think this thread has quickly turned into a 'how to spend other people's money' thread.
This is my take:
Set the suspension up for the tires you want to run.
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Anyway, I don't see the point in picking out bar sizes and other details until after you pick a direction on the suspension upgrades and the tires you want to run.
Hope that helps.
Go to ground control and get a coilover upgrade kit for your Konis and get the bars and springs previously mentioned. The coil over kit is cheap but you will have to use their springs as they have a unique ID. 500/350 35mm/18mm. Just do it, you're going to end up here anyway, why do it over?jpt3 said:Excellent points!!!
Here are my goals. For now I want to keep my koni sport dampeners. I am open to changing the springs for better handling and would like to upgrade the sway bars.
As far as tires I plan to run these R888s until they're shot then start running pirelli takeoff.
With these items in mind what would you recommend?
jpt3 said:Excellent points!!!
Here are my goals. For now I want to keep my koni sport dampeners. I am open to changing the springs for better handling and would like to upgrade the sway bars.
As far as tires I plan to run these R888s until they're shot then start running pirelli takeoff.
With these items in mind what would you recommend?
True, but many of the rates have been tested or measured. And most of the rates are functionally similar in the context of handling. The biggest difference is ride height, and at least this is published info.F.D. Sako said:Most aftermarket companies won't disclose their rates
Fabman said:Go to ground control and get a coilover upgrade kit for your Konis and get the bars and springs previously mentioned. The coil over kit is cheap but you will have to use their springs as they have a unique ID. 500/350 35mm/18mm. Just do it, you're going to end up here anyway, why do it over?
Fabman said:Go to ground control and get a coilover upgrade kit for your Konis and get the bars and springs previously mentioned. The coil over kit is cheap but you will have to use their springs as they have a unique ID. 500/350 35mm/18mm. Just do it, you're going to end up here anyway, why do it over?
Grant 302 said:This route generally will mean first picking the springs, and 'fixing' the geometry from lowering, then working with sway bars to tune the bias.
How much lower are you willing to go from stock?
True, but many of the rates have been tested or measured. And most of the rates are functionally similar in the context of handling. The biggest difference is ride height, and at least this is published info.
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Once the springs are chosen, then depending on the amount of drop, supporting suspension geometry changes can be made like LCA relocation brackets, LCAs if needed for said brackets. Likely caster camber plates. Maybe ball joints/bumpsteer kit if needed. Other mods to 'tighten' the relative slop, if desired. But all that after you figure out how low you want or are willing to go.
And this is certainly something to consider. Added grip is addictive. Many of us *could* have left well enough alone...but how fun is that? That said there have been builds using Koni sports that work just fine for slicks.
jpt3 said:You guys have knowledge way beyond mine when it comes to geometry and everything. At this point I have not done any relocation brackets or new LCAs. I guess it just helps get rid of some of the extra play and make things more precise?
F.D. Sako said:incorrect geometry usually leads to un-neutral driving dynamics, such as snap oversteer, understeer, traction loss mid-turn, etc.
Usually, you want your control arms as parallel to the ground as possible, while taking acceleration/deceleration into consideration as well. Depending on how much you've lowered your car, the control arms can point up. So, you use LCA relocation brackets in the rear and extended balljoints up front to correct the geometry.
This is a high level summary, which is all i know :
You order the spring rates you want when you order the coilover kit.jpt3 said:This is interesting and within reason. I went to their site and I'm not 100% clear. I found the coilover conversion but wasn't sure about springs. Are you saying if I specify that exact spring they will fabricate it like that?
When it talks about retaining the stock perch what does that mean?
Great idea thanks
blacksheep-1 said:Well since Grant brought up spending money, and the Boss/Gt cars aren't bad platforms to begin with, probably the best place to find speed is to attend a driver's school. Everyone, including me, intends to focus on the car when the driver is usually the weakest link at first.
Rarely is money spent on a driver school ever wasted.
Also FWIW, we run a ton of ride height, the Porsche guys we ran with last year were making fun of it since they can put their entire shoe under the front of the car....then the race started.
I'll see if I can find a pic. Keep in mind that to get one of these cars to stick the suspension needs to move, I think one of the pitfalls guys get into is they restrict the movement of the car's suspension. Again, we rarely, if ever, use LCA relocating brackets.
Grant 302 said:Speaking of which...maybe we should focus on the adjustments to make for your next track day? Lower pressure, more camber, fix the squat in the rear.
jpt3 said:Haha funny how that happens. So here are my plans thus far: go from -2 degrees to -2.5 or -3. Lower tire pressures. Lastly the squat? Do you mean the body roll I showed? I am thinking about doing the coil over conversion.