- 6,415
- 8,323
Ok, I'll lay off Preston for that one
I didn't remember exactly what happened, but knew there was a 'by the way'.
To be truthful, he could be a little hard on parts
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Ok, I'll lay off Preston for that one
I didn't remember exactly what happened, but knew there was a 'by the way'.
No worries, but yes, he's a good guy, back when I was dealing with cancer he offered to get me to Austin Texas and a specialist, fortunately, I found one at Moffet in Tampa, that he knew.I was there for that one & remember the car being a crispy critter. Preston is a hell of a nice guy. I shouldn't be such a jerk.
A10 cooling update: I went down the raod of giant coolers the LilZeus way posted earlier. It is still not enough for me clubracing in SCCA T2. Flyhalf is TimeTrialing and still after more cooling and working on finding a way to lock the OE bypass open for more cooling. I decided to not try his method because I'm thinking even with bypass open it is still a bottleneck and there is no way to know at this time if locking the bypass open can open the bypass more than it would open under normal operation. However, the bypass locking open method does start cooling earlier before the trans can get as hot. That might make the difference. We will have to hear back from Flyhalf. In the meantime I have gone a different direction. I hope this post helps someone else out.
I added a secondary cooler and pump to completely bypass the Ford cooler system. If I was doing this again I would try using the big cooler in front of radiator plumbed to the PPE pan and then keep the OEM trans cooler in place. I suspect thsat will be the best solution in the future. For now we are all trying to figure things out.
I bought the PPE mustang A10 oil pan so that I could weld or tap a bung to it pulling hot fluid with a tilton pump to a second front mount cooler with puller fan feed by a brake duct hole cut in the fascia. We have found that the PP1 undertray can direct cool air to brakes so brake ducts are not required. So brake duct holes just add more air to the brakes or can be used to cool the extra trans cooler.
dipstick hole thread is M20 x 1.5
all lines AN8
PPE pan comes 1/8NPT port I drilled with 1/2" drill and tapped for 14x1.5 to AN8 adapter.
View attachment 70475
View attachment 70476
View attachment 70477
View attachment 70478
I am starting this cooling build and would appreciate any tips on mounting everything to the crash bar and how you made the plate that mounts to the crash bar. Do you have the size to the AN fittings that you used to make the adaptors coming off the factory lines that were flared and ran to the tans cooler? How's this set up still working? ThanksView attachment 9045
So here’s what I have done up to this point and it seems to be working very well!
I used Derale 40 row stacked coolers. One for the trans and the other for the oil. I used a setrab oil filter sandwich plate with a 180* thermostat. I liked this plate as it would bleed a bit before the therm opened up to warm the oil in the cooler rather than cooler oil shocking the system. Both of these coolers hold a quart of fluid which to me is helpful. Any increase in capacity will help with temps. I used -10 AN fittings and lines on the oil side. Lots of people said I should have went -12 but the coolers and sandwich plates use -10’o ring ports so that seemed to be the bottle neck in the system so I made the decision I did based off of that. On the trans side I used -8 as the hard line on the factory cooler is half inch. I spliced into the hardline with AN tube nuts and sleeves after flaring the hard line with a AN glaring tool. Then I used the -8 male/male unions which allowed me to hook in the AN lines and hose ends I put together.
I mounted the cooler setup to the crash bar much like an intercooler would.
I knew I would need more air flow to the coolers so I chose a cervinis c series grill delete setup. This opens up the lower grill a lot and I feel it helps. I am worried about lift and an looking into hood vents but the jury is out this far.
I wanted a slick brake cooling setup but no one makes anything for the 18+ bumper as far as inlets go that I think looks good as no one makes a commercially available magnaride backing plate for these spindles so I decided to make something up. I had a buddy 3d print me an inlet. I originally wanted the entire area to be a scupper but I git only half the inlet. So them to block off the open area as to not get air into the fender well area. I used kydex to accomplish this task and get a plastic of similar color and texture as the factory plastics.
The entire set up is working very well. Last weekend at the Mustang Club of America event at Heartland Motorsports Park in Topeka Kansas we had ambient air temps between 97-101 degrees. The trans temps during 20 minute sessions would hold steady at 210-215! To me this is great. Before in the middle of a session it would creep up to 240 and at 230 it starts delaying shifts etc. I don’t have to have a mandatory cool down lap or two in the middle of sessions any more.
I don’t have an oil temp gauge so I can’t say much about that but my coolant temps run straight up so I think not having the factory tranny cooler wedged between the condenser and radiator helps not heat soak the upper radiator and not running coolant through the oil filter housing has to release some taxing heat soak on the coolant side as well.
This is my findings up to this point. Any critiques and criticisms are welcomed!
On the trans side I used -8 as the hard line on the factory cooler is half inch. I spliced into the hardline with AN tube nuts and sleeves after flaring the hard line with a AN glaring tool. Then I used the -8 male/male unions which allowed me to hook in the AN lines and hose ends I put together.
Thanks for the responses. I think I am going to try straight aluminum to mount the upper and lower cooler brackets and flat stock steel to the straight aluminum and then to the crash bar. That should account for the bends needed to mount to the curved crash bar. There are upper and lower center holes that weren't used in the previous build and some bent flat stock steel mounted to the crash bar should help prevent too much movement.The OP hasn't been on TMO since 2019 so he might not even see your question. I don't have an exact answer for how he mounted it to the crash bar but by looking at his pics, the curves of the black plate attached to the aluminum Derale cooler supports looks very similar to the ones used in their 2011-2014 kits:
Direct Fit 2011-2014 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Engine Oil Cooler Kit
Direct Fit 2011-2014 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Engine Oil Cooler Kit Direct Fit Engine Cooler Kit, Fits Mustang GT 5.0 20541, 20542derale.comDirect Fit 2011-2014 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Transmission Cooler Kit
Direct Fit 2011-2014 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Transmission Cooler Kit Direct Fit Engine Cooler Kit, Fits Mustang GT 5.0 20541, 20542derale.com
He probably used angle iron or flat plates to connect the top & bottom Derale supports.
The black Derale crash bar supports have a slight twist to them in order to have everything line up since the crash beam mounts are on a slight arc. The plates are different left & right.
I would call Derale and ask them if the plates will work. Perhaps they may only need a slight modification.
With respect to the trans AN lines he used -8 AN
I will also look into those brackets because they look pretty good and nicely finished!Thanks for the responses. I think I am going to try straight aluminum to mount the upper and lower cooler brackets and flat stock steel to the straight aluminum and then to the crash bar. That should account for the bends needed to mount to the curved crash bar. There are upper and lower center holes that weren't used in the previous build and some bent flat stock steel mounted to the crash bar should help prevent too much movement.
Photos to come once built. Any input is appreciated.
I checked with Derale and they said they did not have those brackets available separately. Thanks for the idea though.
Does anyone know how much pressure is in the trans cooling lines when running? There are some hardline adaptors that I was thinking about using like these that would work well with the factory lines and could be an easy integration with the rest of the AN lines. These are rated to 250psi and with hot lines I was wondering what the estimated PSI would be. ThanksThe OP hasn't been on TMO since 2019 so he might not even see your question. I don't have an exact answer for how he mounted it to the crash bar but by looking at his pics, the curves of the black plate attached to the aluminum Derale cooler supports looks very similar to the ones used in their 2011-2014 kits:
Direct Fit 2011-2014 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Engine Oil Cooler Kit
Direct Fit 2011-2014 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Engine Oil Cooler Kit Direct Fit Engine Cooler Kit, Fits Mustang GT 5.0 20541, 20542derale.comDirect Fit 2011-2014 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Transmission Cooler Kit
Direct Fit 2011-2014 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Transmission Cooler Kit Direct Fit Engine Cooler Kit, Fits Mustang GT 5.0 20541, 20542derale.com
He probably used angle iron or flat plates to connect the top & bottom Derale supports.
The black Derale crash bar supports have a slight twist to them in order to have everything line up since the crash beam mounts are on a slight arc. The plates are different left & right.
I would call Derale and ask them if the plates will work. Perhaps they may only need a slight modification.
With respect to the trans AN lines he used -8 AN
About 5 psiDoes anyone know how much pressure is in the trans cooling lines when running?
What was the piece of metal that was used to create the bypass?For info,
Resharing my setup.
The black cooler is the trans cooler.
The bypass I created works.( i basically made a piece of metal that simulates the thermostat open 24 7. Max temps for time trials is 150f.
View attachment 73288
How easy is it to swap in? Where is the thermostat for the trans? I am running a street car getting set up for HPDE and looking for some additional good tricks. Thanks
Is on the valvebody. Once u take out or expose the valve body is extremely simple. Is in one of the valve. I have an extra valve boby so when u need i show you where it is.How easy is it to swap in? Where is the thermostat for the trans? I am running a street car getting set up for HPDE and looking for some additional good tricks. Thanks
Yep that's it.Flyhalf, that's it? that seams simple. Market that with a full set of instructions and make a butt load of $$$.