Thanks for moving the platform forward. it's amazing to read what you are going through. Fingers crossed for all to fit in place for the Nationals. The car is insane !August 2024
Update.
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Thanks for moving the platform forward. it's amazing to read what you are going through. Fingers crossed for all to fit in place for the Nationals. The car is insane !August 2024
Update.
Grazie RobThis is the best build thread ever for an S550, especially with the automatic. I was wondering if you could find another pan, then cut up the original, and welding on the new one as a deeper sump. You'd have to fab up a longer oil pickup, but all that is doable and relatively cheap.
I'm so glad you caged that car, not only will it be safer, but also more ridged.
Looking forward to more good stuff.
Grazie Robmy pan is already aftermarket. (Trans pan not oil pan)
The issue is I can't install a deeper one (aka the F150 PAN) because if will be too low.
Will keep an eye on possible option.
One question was should I open the filter to pick up more fluid? Every one did it. I reach the conclusion that maybe this creates even more issues (basically not enough vacuum/suction if you open too much)
Take a look of the 2 pics. Oem vs modified fully opened
View attachment 97742
View attachment 97743
Is there's enough height to add baffles & trap doors to your trans pan, like racing oil pans have? Maybe also add "kickouts" on each side to allow for more fluid in the pan?The issue is : I'm reaching forces (lateral G) and speeds I think beyond this transmission. I can touch multiple times 2 G. THE TRANSMISSION FLUID STARVED.
Off the top of my head, it sounds like you need less stiffness in low-speed rebound on the rear shocks - the rear shocks are "pulling up" the tires during the weight shift under braking. Problem is if the shock adjustment lets you control that, or if you need to have the shocks rebuilt with a different valving stack to change it.the rear still tends to snap on me during hard braking
The trans uses internal pump only. No external.Is there's enough height to add baffles & trap doors to your trans pan, like racing oil pans have? Maybe also add "kickouts" on each side to allow for more fluid in the pan?
I'm guessing your trans cooling is a loop from/to the pan with an external pump, rather than using the trans pressure pump. Somewhat crazy idea, but if you had a port on the pressure side of the internal trans fluid, you could add something like an Accusump. No idea if the trans fluid pressure is in the same range as engine oil.
Off the top of my head, it sounds like you need less stiffness in low-speed rebound on the rear shocks - the rear shocks are "pulling up" the tires during the weight shift under braking. Problem is if the shock adjustment lets you control that, or if you need to have the shocks rebuilt with a different valving stack to change it.
Sounds like time for a dry sump trans panThe trans uses internal pump only. No external.
For the rebound we open a nice discussion.
I thought like you did. Less rebound = tires stays down.
However. Many more expert guys suggested the opposite.
Stiffer rebound helps to reduce chassis dive because the tire has grip due to the horizontal forces due to the deceleration.in other words with steffer rebound the tires "holds down the rear part of the car
Sounds like timeSounds like time for a dry sump trans pan
Could do a separate circuit, not interrupting the current pressure circuit….just build a bigger pan with some bungs on it and plumb the sump to a separate pump and cooler and just dump it back in the pan.Sounds like time for a dry sump trans pan
I received no dyno plot with any of my shocks. Cortex has the shocks custom valved at JRI and there is no available info on what that is exactly. Most shocks have bump and rebound adjusters….I can understand that. I should have sprung for the Penske’s.I was looking at JRi stuff a while back, and it seemed like the doubles had different adjustments depending on what vendor you got them from, and/or what options you picked. Going off memory (bad idea), sometimes they adjusted low- and high-speed rebound, and sometimes it was HS rebound and HS compression (I could be wrong).
Ideally, starting somewhere around the $800 per shock price range, I think the shocks should come with dyno plots. Not a generic "engineering design" curve where the manufacturer puts the same graph in each box, but a real shock dyno plot with adjustment sweeps for that actual shock in the box. There will be variance shock-to-shock due to tolerances, and you can use the plots to see that 11 clicks on your left shock is the same as 13 clicks on the right one. And every time you send a shock out for rebuild, you get another dyno plot when it comes back.
For shock & suspension tuning, I found a series of articles several years ago that made sense to me. The original site is gone, but the Internet Archive saved them.Dynamic Load Transfer
How weight (or load transfer) affects handling of a racing car, and terms used to describe load transferweb.archive.org
Great minds think alike, that would solve a bunch of his cooling problems as well.Could do a separate circuit, not interrupting the current pressure circuit….just build a bigger pan with some bungs on it and plumb the sump to a separate pump and cooler and just dump it back in the pan.
It could be a low pressure system as well, as long as the sump was full, it wouldn't matter how much psi was generated by the trans itself in order to operate.Great minds think alike, that would solve a bunch of his cooling problems as well.
The cooling is under control. I never overheat. The issue is all the rest. The pump I suspect is not enough during high G turn.Great minds think alike, that would solve a bunch of his cooling problems as well.
Totally especially when you are low with the fluid. And once you go low. And the clutches start to slip you loosed clutches too.Does the transmission have a port that you can use for a sensor to data log the line pressure? I'm thinking that in high-g corners, the fluid is sloshing to the side, uncovering the pickup, and the pump is sucking some air. Air is compressible, so when that happens you're losing line pressure, which is what's causing the clutches to slip. Just my theory.