Thinking about getting an oil separator on the passenger side... Was wondering if anyone had any opinions about JLT versus Moroso...The Moroso looks more durable and I like the fact that is has all metal fittings. Looks like you might run into less problems with it breaking... Any thoughts? (I know the Moroso is a little more expensive, but I'd rather pay a little more if it's going to last longer. I heard though that I might need to replace those"heater hoses" as they're not really designed to withstand oil)
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Different Oil Separator Installations
- Thread starter808Boss
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Re: Moroso versus JLT?
Hey Scott or 2012 YellowBoss,
I am adding this improvement to my car. Can you post some close up pictures of your pushpin mounting & the push pins? I assume they are just like ones that hold trim pieces on. Did you drill holes in the firewall or use some existing ones? I suppose if you use nuts & bolts you have to have access from inside the car. Does anyone know how this breather can is mounted on the Boss 302S racecars? Thanks!
bulldogracer-Ken
2012YellowBoss said:
Hey Scott or 2012 YellowBoss,
I am adding this improvement to my car. Can you post some close up pictures of your pushpin mounting & the push pins? I assume they are just like ones that hold trim pieces on. Did you drill holes in the firewall or use some existing ones? I suppose if you use nuts & bolts you have to have access from inside the car. Does anyone know how this breather can is mounted on the Boss 302S racecars? Thanks!
bulldogracer-Ken
Re: Moroso versus JLT?
Sorry no close up pics of the mount, car is at the shop now. The pins I use are the thickest I could find (stole them from the body shop at the dealer :
). I should have noted the size hole drilled but did not think about it when installing however I drilled the smallest possible holes in the firewall that would accept the push pin, there were no existing holes or dimples. You can get a couple of extra pins and drill a few test holes in some sheet metal to find the best fit, you want a fair amount of pressure to get it in but not to the point of forcing them.
As far as the 302S goes, I am not sure how they are mounted, maybe Smitty can look but I would assume they are held in with nut and bolt. This will work if you have two people and I believe there is plenty ofroom in the area but it will be very hard to get at from inside.
Couple of tips: I tried to stay as far from the battery as possible but that was a mistake since it is closer to the valve cover now (or the plastic coil cover). As long as it is not touching the battery you will be fine. Make sure you have room up top to be able to remove the top or you will need to take the hoses off each time to clean it out. I mounted the bracket low (can't even see it in the pics) so if I need to pull the can out for some reason it would be easier, also there are creases in the firewall I was trying to find a good flat spot. In the end if you have the bracket higher I doubt it would make much of a difference.
Sorry no close up pics of the mount, car is at the shop now. The pins I use are the thickest I could find (stole them from the body shop at the dealer :
). I should have noted the size hole drilled but did not think about it when installing however I drilled the smallest possible holes in the firewall that would accept the push pin, there were no existing holes or dimples. You can get a couple of extra pins and drill a few test holes in some sheet metal to find the best fit, you want a fair amount of pressure to get it in but not to the point of forcing them. As far as the 302S goes, I am not sure how they are mounted, maybe Smitty can look but I would assume they are held in with nut and bolt. This will work if you have two people and I believe there is plenty ofroom in the area but it will be very hard to get at from inside.
Couple of tips: I tried to stay as far from the battery as possible but that was a mistake since it is closer to the valve cover now (or the plastic coil cover). As long as it is not touching the battery you will be fine. Make sure you have room up top to be able to remove the top or you will need to take the hoses off each time to clean it out. I mounted the bracket low (can't even see it in the pics) so if I need to pull the can out for some reason it would be easier, also there are creases in the firewall I was trying to find a good flat spot. In the end if you have the bracket higher I doubt it would make much of a difference.
Re: Moroso versus JLT?
Scott,
Thanks for the info. That breather can is alot bigger than I thought. It doesn't look that big in the pictures. Yeah not much room to fit it like you said either close to the battery or plastic cover.
Ken
Scott,
Thanks for the info. That breather can is alot bigger than I thought. It doesn't look that big in the pictures. Yeah not much room to fit it like you said either close to the battery or plastic cover.
Ken
andrewlewis128
Thinking about getting an grease separator regarding the passenger side... Had been thinking if anybody had just about any viewpoints about JLT versus Moroso...The Moroso looks more durable and I like the simple fact that is has every one of the steel fittings. Looks like you may encounter less problems alongside it breaking... Just about any thoughts? (I understand the Moroso is a a little more expensive, however I'd very pay a bit more if it's going to final longer. I known though which I could very well want to substitute those"heater hoses" as they're not designed to withstand oil)
ace72ace
Zaino, I put that $hit on everything
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If I ever decide to install one of these, I have to go against the grain here and say that I'd actually prefer the simpler and understated look of the JLT setup, with the can black and not metal finish. In my eyes, I'd like the functionality of the part and have it be installed to look like it came like that from the factory. I'm not bashing anyone's preference to make the part more noticeable with higher quality fittings and connectors. However I really like the overall beauty of the engine compartment as delivered from the factory. For this reason I will be getting rid of the lame sound tube because I'd like to see more of the engine, and less ugly hose.
As the only thing the oil separator hoses are tasked with carrying is oil vapor under relatively low pressure, then the JLT looks to be ideal for me. Are there situations on the track where high temp and high RPM loads could cause the 'less robust' JLT to fail? If there is a legit reason why you would think the more expensive fittings that double the cost are justified (besides looks), I'd like to hear them. I can't see the stock OEM grade hoses 'wearing out' over time, if properly cared for and maintained.
So I'm just expressing my preference for 'vanilla' in this mostly 'chocolate' thread.
As the only thing the oil separator hoses are tasked with carrying is oil vapor under relatively low pressure, then the JLT looks to be ideal for me. Are there situations on the track where high temp and high RPM loads could cause the 'less robust' JLT to fail? If there is a legit reason why you would think the more expensive fittings that double the cost are justified (besides looks), I'd like to hear them. I can't see the stock OEM grade hoses 'wearing out' over time, if properly cared for and maintained.
So I'm just expressing my preference for 'vanilla' in this mostly 'chocolate' thread.
There have been several failures of the original JLT fittings documented here and elsewhere. The Vanilla fittings break where chocolate ones don't.ace72ace said:
JLT is aware of the problem and I believe now include metal fittings.
ace72ace
Zaino, I put that $hit on everything
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So you are saying the problem is now fixed? Good news.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/front-page-news-143/789246-svtperformance-separation-anxiety-jlt-oil-separator-review.html
Like the looks of the black.
However, if they haven't fixed the design flaw from the plastic fittings snapping off as detailed in this post, then indeed I can see why you would want to bypass this brand and buy an aluminum can that has aluminum and not plastic fittings.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2011-mustangs-354/804791-jlt-oil-separator-repair.html
If I get one, I'll post up my preferred flavor if vanilla is just too wimpy. Maybe 'moose tracks'
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/front-page-news-143/789246-svtperformance-separation-anxiety-jlt-oil-separator-review.html
Like the looks of the black.
However, if they haven't fixed the design flaw from the plastic fittings snapping off as detailed in this post, then indeed I can see why you would want to bypass this brand and buy an aluminum can that has aluminum and not plastic fittings.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/2011-mustangs-354/804791-jlt-oil-separator-repair.html
If I get one, I'll post up my preferred flavor if vanilla is just too wimpy. Maybe 'moose tracks'
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I will be installing the Moroso Oil Separator next weekend. I'll be using the fuel hose that comes with the kit. However, I have ordered a couple of these springs to insert into the hoses, so that they don't have any chance to collapse under vacuum.
http://www.amazon.com/Inch-7-6-Stainless-length-Compression-Spring/dp/B002P4SQ3C/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1340715685&sr=1-1&keywords=ST7-41+spring
Plus I'll be using some spring-type clamps so that the install looks and functions as well as if the separator was OEM. I'll post a couple photos when done.
http://www.amazon.com/Inch-7-6-Stainless-length-Compression-Spring/dp/B002P4SQ3C/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1340715685&sr=1-1&keywords=ST7-41+spring
Plus I'll be using some spring-type clamps so that the install looks and functions as well as if the separator was OEM. I'll post a couple photos when done.
Those springs aren't necessary. I purchased these clamps from Summit and they have a nice appearance.
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5 DOT 0 said:Those springs aren't necessary. I purchased these clamps from Summit and they have a nice appearance.
Unfortunately, the springs are necessary if you don't upgrade the hoses. I did consider the hose and clamps you are using, but the extra $60 or so shipped was more than I wanted to spend. Thanks for the photo.
I installed the JLT yesterday. I made five passes in the 1/4 mile. I checked the separator this morning. It had oil. I'm happy with the JLT. It doesn't give me any power but it seems like it must be better for the motor. I would have never known about it, if not for this forum. Thanks guys!
Justin
Save the dawn for your dishes!!!
are you running a passenger side or drivers side or both?seca954 said:
Justin said:
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SoFlaBoss said:
I installed my Moroso oil separator yesterday, and I'm very happy with the result. The only extra parts I bought were the above mentioned springs and spring clamps. I also painted the stainless steel bracket satin black. Below are some photos, as promised.
Looks good. Did you consider painting the brass fittings black too?
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5 DOT 0 said:
Thanks. Didn't think about painting the brass fittings, as they match the brass fittings on my linelock solenoid on the other side of the engine compartment, LOL.
JLT uses modified stock lines so flattening out is not a problem. SoFla did a nice job with the Moroso install, very neat.
Steve
Steve
Steve or anyone else who can weigh in: If I were to install an open breather tank with a filter open to the atmosphere like this one: http://www.americanmuscle.com/moroso-breather-tank.html
and route both cam cover breather hoses to it, and then plug both vacuum port side connectors (at the throttle body and the intake tube), would I get a check engine light due to vacuum leak? Basically I would be doing away with the PCV system, and just have an open breather.
I have done this on my supercharged '97 BMW M3 which has OBD-II, and it does not give me a check engine light, but I thought maybe the Ford engine computer is a little smarter.
and route both cam cover breather hoses to it, and then plug both vacuum port side connectors (at the throttle body and the intake tube), would I get a check engine light due to vacuum leak? Basically I would be doing away with the PCV system, and just have an open breather.
I have done this on my supercharged '97 BMW M3 which has OBD-II, and it does not give me a check engine light, but I thought maybe the Ford engine computer is a little smarter.
drano38
Wayne
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SoFlaBoss,
Great looking install there!
My JLT doesn't look as nice, but I can remove it in about 5 seconds, open the cap, drain it, and reinstall it in about a 2 minutes.
They all have their advantages.
Great looking install there!
My JLT doesn't look as nice, but I can remove it in about 5 seconds, open the cap, drain it, and reinstall it in about a 2 minutes.
They all have their advantages.
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