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Project Super Beater Profile - S197 Mustangs

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Fabman

Dances with Racecars
6,620
8,309
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
20+ Years
Pleasanton: 1/2 way between Sonoma and Laguna Seca
Oh superbeater... I thought it was rare the AC still worked. One race day and it gave up. I'm on the fence as to whether I want to fix it or delete it. The summers in 100% humidity in Florida are tough while waiting in the staging lanes. I ordered the parts, but they'll all fit my Shelby so I won't be out anything.
You can actually see the trans tunnel from the front of the car. The evaporator core is bad, but like most things you better swap out the heater core, compressor switch, drier and orifice tube while you're there.
View attachment 86987View attachment 86988View attachment 86989
Ugg...too much work.
 
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So basically the dash has to come out, it was actually a lot simpler than I thought. I did remove the seats though, so I could lay down and work under the dash. Once the plastic is popped off, there is only 9 bolts and 1 nut holding the dash in. Once that is removed 2 nuts and 1 bolt removes the heater/ A/C box.
This is the video I used for reference.


And while I was in there, I upped the insulation with some gold insulation.
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1,242
1,251
Exp. Type
HPDE
Exp. Level
5-10 Years
Lenoir City TN
I haven't taken the dash out of the Mustang, but have out of my Dodge Ram 2500. It was much easier than you would think. The Mustang doesn't look that bad. Know I have an idea of what I am for when the time comes.
 
6,572
8,564
I haven't taken the dash out of the Mustang, but have out of my Dodge Ram 2500. It was much easier than you would think. The Mustang doesn't look that bad. Know I have an idea of what I am for when the time comes.
When I replaced the oriface tube and the accumulator I also replaced the heater hoses. I removed the plenum to facilitate that, the plenum and the fuel rails only take about 10 to 15 minutes to remove and makes those chores a whole lot easier.
 
223
193
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Columbia, TN
This may be a bit off topic, but maybe on topic. After about an hour of running, my AC basically stops working and the fan speed goes way down even though it's set to high. If I turn the temp knob to warm or heat, in about 15 minutes I can go back to cold, but the whole process repeats in about 10 minutes. Seems to me like the condensation drip tube/drain isn't working or the thing is icing up. When it's working it blows super cold. Any ideas?
 
6,572
8,564
This may be a bit off topic, but maybe on topic. After about an hour of running, my AC basically stops working and the fan speed goes way down even though it's set to high. If I turn the temp knob to warm or heat, in about 15 minutes I can go back to cold, but the whole process repeats in about 10 minutes. Seems to me like the condensation drip tube/drain isn't working or the thing is icing up. When it's working it blows super cold. Any ideas?
I wonder if the evap is icing up? that would account for the low air speed and the time it takes to recover. Could it be overfilled with freon of maybe an obstruction in the evap
 
223
193
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Columbia, TN
I have no clue. How do I first check for an obstruction? Is this a pull the dash job? If nothing there then I will certainly take it in for an AC pressure/fill check.
 
6,572
8,564
I have a degree in automotive technology, that being said, it is from 1976, so let me think about this for awhile.
Try to get the car to do it again, and reach under the dash to the air box and see if it feels frozen, super cold, maybe even ice on the outside. Also check the A/C lines going into the firewall, if those are frozen, get back to me and we can go from there.
 

xr7

TMO Addict?
727
854
Exp. Type
Autocross
Exp. Level
10-20 Years
Minnesota
You need to get some gauges on the system, if your evaporator core pressure is to low the condensation will freeze on the core, fan speed drops. The low side pressure at the compressor is essentially the same as the evap core. Obvious thing to check is the evap housing drain, condensation needs to get out. The other item to watch for - watch the air coming out the vents, if you start to see fog that's another clue your evap core is freezing up. Not sure exactly how the A/C system operates in these, maybe a restricted orifice tube of if there is a switch in the system to cycle the compressor clutch the switch may not be shutting the compressor off which will cause the comp to pull the low side too low.
 
6,572
8,564
You need to get some gauges on the system, if your evaporator core pressure is to low the condensation will freeze on the core, fan speed drops. The low side pressure at the compressor is essentially the same as the evap core. Obvious thing to check is the evap housing drain, condensation needs to get out. The other item to watch for - watch the air coming out the vents, if you start to see fog that's another clue your evap core is freezing up. Not sure exactly how the A/C system operates in these, maybe a restricted orifice tube of if there is a switch in the system to cycle the compressor clutch the switch may not be shutting the compressor off which will cause the comp to pull the low side too low.
They are orifice tube with a pressure switch design., pretty simple..
 
223
193
Exp. Type
W2W Racing
Exp. Level
3-5 Years
Columbia, TN
Definitely no fog from the vents, even when it's humid. Is the drain directly behind the intake manifold on the firewall, like tucked under the two heater hoses?
 
6,572
8,564
Definitely no fog from the vents, even when it's humid. Is the drain directly behind the intake manifold on the firewall, like tucked under the two heater hoses?
not on mine, time to hook up some hoses and see what the pressures are. most of the issues with these are either a clogged oriface tube or an accumulator full of crud, if you run out of freon, then head for the evaporator.
 
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8,564
Ok, so working through some issues, with fuel slosh, I had earlier replaced the pump with a Delphi unit, but I was getting weird dash warning about fuel level at the FIRM. So I went back in..
The douchecanoe that came up with these clips needs to be kicked right in the nuts. Broke both and hosed up the new $345.00.Delphi pump trying to get the POS off. Blood not included.


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